Haute Couture Week AW24: The best of Chanel, Dior and more
Runway dreams

Haute Couture Week—the culmination of the fashion calendar—graced Paris once more with major fashion houses like Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga showcasing their collections. This season was particularly exceptional as Chanel debuted its first collection without Virginie Viard, and Schiaparelli mesmerised audiences with breathtaking Phoenix-inspired creations. Read on to discover five of our favourite shows from the fashion affair.
Chanel
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Creative director: Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio
Venue: Palais Garnier
Highlights of the collection: This collection marks the House’s first without a creative director, honouring the opera house—a venue deeply significant to fashion history and the Maison itself. In a set crafted by French director Christophe Honoré, classic suits returned with a twist, embellished with feathers, tassels and cabochons. Playful details like oversized hair bows and open-toe heels added an extra touch of charm to the ensembles.
Key pieces from the line: Italian model Vittoria set the tone on the runway in a white bodysuit paired with a voluminous cape, leading into a series of monochromatic ensembles in black, gold, purple and pale pink. Standout pieces included a chic floor-length trench coat and a couple of elegant gold dresses. True to Chanel’s Haute Couture legacy, the show concluded with the Chanel bride donning a long-sleeved white gown adorned with a beautifully embroidered floral bodice.
Dior
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Creative director: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Venue: Musée Rodin
Highlights of the collection: With the Olympics just around the corner, Dior pays homage to athletes with a sophisticated wardrobe of peplum and pleats. Jersey—an unconventional choice for Haute Couture—has also been reworked as a shimmering metal mesh in gold, silver and white, gently shaping the silhouette with the support of an ultralight inner bustier. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the focus is on mixing couture and sportswear with a hint of classicism and rebellion, while also honours the political significance of the female body.
Key pieces from the line: On the runway, silk gowns captivate with elaborate embroidery and draping reminiscent of classical statues. There are also draped skirts that reveal pants with each stride, imparting a sense of fluidity and grace to the designs. Instead of handbags, accessories like luminous pearl earrings, delicate wire bangles and chic gladiator sandals lend a bold and timeless touch to each ensemble.
Giorgio Armani Privé
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Creative director: Giorgio Armani
Venue: Palais de Tokyo
Highlights of the collection: This season, pearls are not just confined to jewellery; they adorn glossy fabrics and evening bags, embodying elegance and luxury. These gemstones are delicately scattered across the garments, shimmering like dew drops and dancing with the light. Amidst all the opulence, Giorgio’s relaxed yet refined silhouette remains unmistakably distinct.
Key pieces from the line: Sculpted jackets with strong shoulders and flowing trousers are hard to miss, alongside wrap-around overcoats as well as fluid tops and skirts. Classic berets and luxurious furry winter hats further define the quintessential Armani woman. Our top pick? The gorgeous all-pearl long dresses.
Balenciaga
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Creative director: Demna Gvasalia
Venue: 10 Avenue George V
Highlights of the collection: The House’s 53rd Couture collection celebrates distinct subculture dress codes that resonate with Demna’s signature style, while honouring Cristóbal Balenciaga’s four omnipresent codes: the three-quarter bell-shaped sleeve, cocoon silhouettes, avant-garde headwear and innovative fabrics. What also captures the eyes are the butterfly motifs seen on the butterfly veils, inspired by artist Yumi Okita. Likewise, the collection highlights strong collaboration through hand-draped hats and frozen-in-resin t-shirts created with Ni Hao, as well as carbon fibre bodies crafted in partnership with artist Alastair Gibson.
Key pieces from the line: The show began with everyday staples like printed t-shirts and flannel shirts, paving the way for faux fur coats made from synthetic hair and maxi goth dresses embellished with knitwear embroidery. And then there’s a white column dress crafted from melted and up-cycled plastic bags, together with a dress formed entirely from a single piece of black leather. The showstopper? A black nylon dress, designed to exist solely for the exclusive show.
Schiaparelli
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Creative director: Daniel Roseberry
Venue: Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild
Highlights of the collection: The first look is truly breathtaking: a black velvet cape with Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders decorated with 3D chrome trompe l’oeil feather embroidery. The dramatic, broad-shouldered design carries through to the following outfits, which include a long draped dress with a deep V neckline, a dark grey flannel cape and a black velvet maxi dress embellished with hammered gold brass pieces. These overarching designs are made to arrest while preserving an air of mystery.
Key pieces from the line: While these larger designs continue to expand in this universe, there are a few pieces that reveal the female curves, like the asymmetric illusion dress with moving circles at the hem and the velvet bustier dress with contrasting polka dot patterns. Additionally, suits have been elevated with refined details like satin bows and feather tips. The accessories are fashioned in an egg-shaped design, as seen by the shiny minaudière and rhinestones-studded bracelets.
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