Chanel moves forward with seamless elegance, even in the absence of a creative director. Earlier this month, the Maison unveiled its Métiers d’art collection in Hangzhou, China—a locale imbued with historical significance.
This city resonates with the story of Gabrielle Chanel’s prized 19th-century Coromandel lacquered screen, which stood as the centrepiece of her office at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. As the largest in her collection, the screen served as a wellspring of creativity—a vision mirrored in Hangzhou’s celebrated silk tradition and artisanal heritage. A poetic choice for Chanel’s legacy of artistry.
“I would faint with happiness when I walked into a Chinese art dealer and saw a Coromandel.”—Gabrielle Chanel
In anticipation of the show, Chanel tapped German filmmaker Wim Wenders to direct a short film set between Paris and Hangzhou. Starring the House’s ambassadors Tilda Swinton, Xin Zhilei, and Leah Dou, the film honours the storied past of West Lake (Lake Xihu), capturing its role as a bridge between reality and imagination. Through his lens, Hangzhou emerges as a city of contrasts, where ancient traditions meet contemporary innovation.
Central to Wenders’ inspiration was Gabrielle Chanel’s Coromandel screen. Though Chanel herself never travelled to China, the intricate motifs of this cherished antique became a portal into her artistic universe. Chinese influences surfaced throughout her 1950s and ‘60s collection, revealing her deep reverence for its beauty. For Chanel, West Lake represented what it has always been—a source of myths and timeless stories that transcend generations.
Chanel revealed its latest collection under a starry night, with A-list celebrities like Lupita Nyong’o, Lucy Boynton and Wang Yibo seated in the front row. Chanel’s signature style and profound inspiration were the essence of the lineup, all expertly realised by the Maisons d’art at le19M in Paris.
Chinese supermodel Liu Wen opened the show in a floor-length, shouldered coat of luxurious tweed, coupled with boots that sparkled like stars. The runway then unfolded in a symphony of black satin and velvet, beautifully punctuated by pagoda sleeves, mandarin collars and delicate floral details that told a story of quiet enchantment.
Straight-cut jackets, side-buttoned blazers and tuxedo jackets graced the runway, paired with voluminous pleated skirts, wrap skirts and culottes to achieve a perfect balance of sharp tailoring and graceful movement. And, of course, select pieces were adorned with Coromandel screen motifs, including lotus flowers and birds perched on branches.
The footwear selection speaks to both luxury and craftsmanship, featuring black patent leather tight boots, pointed slippers and Massaro’s mid-calf boots—favourites of Gabrielle Chanel. Many were embellished with Lesage’s remarkable embroidery, turning each piece into a work of art. Soft beanies, scarves, and Maison Michel hats round out the ensembles, crowning the chic silhouettes with an air of subtle sophistication.
Swipe through the gallery to see all the celebrities attending the show:
In case you missed it, watch the show here:
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