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Paris Men's Fashion Week AW19 round-up: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Hermès and Celine

Paris Men's Fashion Week AW19 round-up: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Hermès and Celine

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Text: Joan Kong


Image: IMaxtree

These four fashion houses closed Men’s Fashion Week this season with a bang

Louis Vuitton

 

Who: As expected at any Virgil's show, the Louis Vuitton Men's front row was jam-packed with a throng of It-celebs, including Timothée Chalamet, Frank Ocean, Kris Wu, and Naomi Campbell, who showed off her new short crop at the event. Chinese pop star JJ Lin was also in attendance.

Where: Held in a graffiti-covered tent at the Tuileries garden, the set was recreated to look like the streets of New York City, aimed to emulate the vibes of Michael Jackson's "Billie Jean" video—which brings us to our next point.   

The low-down: This season's show was a tribute to the late Michael Jackson, and the reference is apparent. Although the invite featured a crystal-encrusted white glove, the collection steered clear of "costume-y" looks. Instead, looks that were sent down the runway (or streets, to be specific) centered around sophisticated tailoring, with doses of swag injected into them. Some of the standout pieces include; a monogrammed leather jacket with pouches as pockets, and more feminine silhouettes in the form of long pleated skirts with trousers worn under. The King of Pop references can be seen from the array of jackets and silk shirts that came with military buttons, black-and-white loafers, and ensembles printed with Michael Jackson as the scarecrow, and other characters from the 1978 film The Wiz.

Buro loves: While we can foresee some sure-hit pieces such as the monogram embossed bomber and vest, the most talked about piece from the show, is no doubt the glass-fiber duffle in LED engineering lights that glowed oh-so-beautifully in the dark. Wallets at the ready!

 

Dior

Who: The brand's longtime muse, Robert Pattinson, supermodel Kate Moss, actress Christina Ricci, and singer Lily Allen were some of the stars on the FROW.

Where: Although the two previous runway sets featured awe-inspiring statues—Kaws' BFF during SS19, and a 39-foot Hajime Sorayama robot at the Cruise'19 show in Tokyo—this round, Kim Jones opted for a pared-back space with only one thing at the center-a 76-meter conveyor belt that transported each model from one end to another.

The low-down: For Dior Men's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, Kim Jones dug into the brand's roots and gave them his own reinterpretation. "Examining the past, making it speak to the future", as it's written in the show-notes. Case in point: the panthere print that was first spotted in Christian Dior's first collection back in 1947, accompanied with tiger and leopard motifs. Sleek tailoring was softened with a dose of femininity in the form of satin sashes, and some, draping to the floor, and the alluring elements were juxtaposed with utilitarian details such as harnesses and vests to highlight the idea of "couture as a craft".

Buro loves: The artist collaboration this round was with artist Raymond Pettibon, whose craft was turned into prints, knits, and embroideries. Spot the opening look featuring a pair of eyes against an impressionistic sky, and Mona Lisa-inspired motif on an array of tops.

 

Hermès

Who: Fun fact: Véronique Nichanian has been the artistic director of Hermès' Men's Universe for 31 years.

Where: Hermès' AW19 show was held at the Mobilier National—the oldest furniture depository in the world.

The low-down: As usual, you can expect the French fashion house to deliver a strong yet timeless collection that is the epitome of classic luxury, but what we love most this season, is the colour palette that makes up the perfect autumn/winter wardrobe, from blue and grey to brown, orange and red. Peppered among the looks, were some pared back separates that enhance the casual vibe, such as polo T-shirts and lightweight turtleneck. Instead of horses, Nichanian opted for a fiery creature to tune up the volume-a dragon emblem that was etched on buttons, and plastered on shirts.

Buro loves: The leather pieces that are coated with a layer of sheen, as seen on the shirts, trousers, and coats.

 

Celine

Who: This marked Hedi Slimane's first menswear show for Celine during Paris Men's Fashion Week.

Where: Inside the venue at the Place de la Concorde, hung a huge pendulum sphere that was filled with neon lights. 

The low-down: Titled "A London Diary: Polaroids of the British Youth", the collection was an homage to British youth. While we were expecting looks that are more provocative (remember his debut SS19 show?), Hedi Slimane surprised us with ensembles that were unexpectedly refined. The opening outfit was a double-breasted black pantsuit, accessorised with a skinny tie and the brand's New Wave sunglasses, although there were pops of bright red and striking leopard print that uplifted the mood. Like Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton show, classic black loafers were worn with white ankle socks—they'll be the footwear du jour in no time.

Buro loves: The jacket-on-jacket looks that could be—and will be—our winter style inspo.

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