Men’s Fashion Week SS24: All the highlights you missed from Louis Vuitton, Valentino and more
The best bits
Men’s Fashion Week returned this month, and it has been nothing short of spectacular, with Pharrell Williams unveiling his first-ever menswear collection for Louis Vuitton, Taeyong of NCT named as Loewe’s latest ambassador, and Valentino redefining masculinity in a new light. Read on to find our favourite shows from the two-week-long affair.
Prada
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Creative directors: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Venue: Deposito of the Fondazione Prada
Highlights of the collection: Under the theme ‘Fluid Form’, the fashion duo experimented with fluid architecture in reconstructing structured clothes. The shirt formed the foundation to transform the entire stable of menswear, amplifying fluidity while bringing out the airiness of every piece. Likewise, the concept of fluidity extends across the show space as abstract barriers are evoked through fluid disruptions.
Key pieces from the line: Distinctive elements like three-dimensional floral prints were visible through the use of corsages and fringe, while multiple utilitarian pockets adorned the garments. Other standouts include the high-waisted shorts with exposed thighs and the angular, square-toe shoes.
Valentino
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Creative director: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Venue: Università degli Studi di Milano Statale
Highlights of the collection: This season, the identity of men and masculinities are reconstructed through a fresh contemporary lens. Titled ‘Valentino: The Narratives’, the collection was built on the rules of tailoring, and there’s no better place to present it than the historical setting of Valentino Garavani’s first menswear show in 1985. While the colour palette evolved throughout the collection, floral motifs blossomed in the midst of it and adorned some of the pieces.
Key pieces from the line: The juxtaposition of sartorial blazers and coats with shorts stand out the most from the collection. The addition of floral patterns offered a fresh twist that made it perfect for summer. Whether fashioned with the drill, poplin, or cotton double, pure cotton fabric pushed the envelope and delivered a fresh take of sophistication.
Saint Laurent
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Creative director: Anthony Vaccarello
Venue: Neue Nationalgalerie
Highlights of the collection: Set in Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie, Vaccarello continues reviving Saint Laurent’s quintessential essence with an air of contemporary and comfort. Although the collection borrowed cues from the House’s previous womenswear collections, it was executed in novel combinations that highlighted the versatility of the Saint Laurent wardrobe.
Key pieces from the line: Boxy suit jackets with exaggerated shoulders ruled the runway until the feminine element gradually materialised. This includes luscious silk halter tops, off-the-shoulder tops with hanging draped fabrics, and heeled ankle boots. Meanwhile, leopard prints and polka dots provide a much-needed contrast to the sombre colours Vaccarello has long favoured.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Pharrell Williams
Venue: Pont Neuf
Highlights of the collection: The much-anticipated debut collection drew inspiration from the sun, which echoed in the inviting hues of the palette and the glistening decorations that adorn garments and accessories. Further, Louis Vuitton’s initials evolved into an emblem of a new LVERS culture, where they come into play in graphics and embellishments. Another significant element was the arrival of Damoflage, which mixes the French house’s classic Damier design with camouflage in three shades.
Key pieces from the line: Aside from Damoflage, coloured Damier dominated the range across outerwear, indigo denim, and pyjama silhouettes. The famous Speedy bag received a makeover with a silkscreen-printed Monogram, while the prized trunks came in Monogram Copper. In the footwear department, nubuck bowling shoes, a magnified calfskin Mary-Jane, and an LV-crested leather hotel slipper in Damie brilliant hues made their runway debuts. Not to be missed were the goggle-like sunglasses studded with pearls or framed by black wire.
Dior
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Creative director: Kim Jones
Venue: École Militaire
Highlights of the collection: In celebration of his fifth anniversary with Dior, Jones paid tribute to all the influences from his predecessors and connected them using texture and technique. From Yves Saint Laurent’s silhouettes to Marc Bohan’s fabrics, each piece emanates whimsical modernity while keeping practicality in mind. On top of that, the collection highlighted the roots of womenswear fabrications in the gentleman’s wardrobe.
Key pieces from the line: Symbolic techniques like tweeds, embroideries, and cannage were employed to transform archetypal masculine pieces like the cardigan, Harrington jacket, and polo. The shoes, on the other hand, took their inspiration from the 1995’s Lady Dior bag and featured an all-new circular emblem on thick-soled loafers and slides. Similarly, the bags were an instant hit, with new styles, including the fluorescent pop saddle and cognac cannage satchels.
Loewe
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: La Garde Républicaine
Highlights of the collection: In a set decorated with Lynda Benglis’ huge water fountains, Loewe presented a collection that looked into perspective—how perceptions and scales shape silhouettes. Subtle elements turn prominent with the perfect degree of elongation and gesture. There were also brilliant moments with crystal-encrusted outfits from head to toe.
Key pieces from the line: Matching bedazzled shirts and high-waisted jeans were to die for. Along with that, the leather jumpsuits and tops with an oversized pin stole the show. In addition to the round-toe Chelsea boots and ballet shoes, oversized bags like the suede Pebble bucket and Puzzle Fold totes were spotted on the runway.
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