Upon poring over all the collections from Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW2016, we found that what we love even more than merely a beautiful collection is when it has references so poignant yet heartening at the same time—case in point: Raf Simons and his rather fragmented collection of oversized sweaters and skinny cropped pants, signifying perhaps a nostalgic look to the past with plenty of underlying meaning and emotion.
Kris Van Assche did Dior Homme justice despite having elements of skate culture thrown into the mix. While fingerless skate gloves only remind us of delivery boys and a sense of rebellion during our teenage years, Van Assche juxtaposed a feminine and very Dior touch to the collection that were apt: slender silhouettes, ribbon neckties, narrow shirts, and the like.
But on the surface however, splashes of colour were welcomed this season. Hermès gave us athleisure-inspired looks with some raspberry and turquoise thrown into the mix, and Chitose Abe never fails us with quirky staples in vivid hues and simple yet not overly complicating details (jackets on jackets, anyone?) at Sacai.
For the brooding type—we all know one out there, who invests in sleek classic coats and occasionally splurges on a statement piece that’s printed or embroidered luxuriously—Kim Jones’ aristocratic collection for Louis Vuitton will make you yearn to travel to Paris while decking out in cashmere-lined coats, utilitarian jackets, and heavy-soled shoes. Along those lines, we can always bet on Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran for an impeccably-cut cape coat that slouches the right way. We’ll be adding that said coat and Dries Van Noten’s beautifully embellished version into our wishlists for next winter.
Things at Valentino started off predictably yet it progressed with a surprisingly edgy touch—we’re digging the subtle punk references with studded leather bombers and equally studded brogues. Then again, who else do we look to but Haider Ackermann for a well-executed rockstar theme (teemed with gelled quiffs spotted on models)? We don’t know anyone else who’d actually wear a metallic-thread and tweed jacket with those electric blue crushed velvet pants, but then again, no one else can do aggression, Goth, punk and glamour as well as Haider.
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