PFW SS19 day 1: Dior, Gucci and Jacquemus
Who: Rarely seen at Paris Fashion Week, actress Blake Lively made an appearance at the Dior show, alongside the Haim sisters, Eva Herzigova and our own Neelofa.
Where: Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior women's collection, eschewed the Musée Rodin for the Hippodrome Paris Longchamp on the outskirts of the city. Although a racecourse, the large box within which the show was set, had quotes about dance printed on it, hinting at what was to come ("Dance, dance, otherwise we are lost." - Pina Baush). The show space took 60 people 2 weeks to build.
The Low-down: The show opened with two dancers performing as rose petals fell from above. Choreographed by Sharon Eyal, the dance complemented the entire show as models walked the square runway that also served as a stage for the group of contemporary dancers. "The experience of dance, its most intimate truth, the fact that it is a means of universal expression, and the radicality of the gestures of contemporary dance have all stimulated my imagination," says Maria Grazia. There were layers of tulle, bodysuits, skirts that swished with every movement, slightly oversized minimalist dresses for ease of throwing on after dance practice - and the shoes! Obviously inspired by ballet shoes, satin ribbons wrapped the foot and ankle, with a Plexiglas heel for added lightness.
Buro loves: The sheer tulle dresses in all its incarnations, the ombre coats, the short-sleeve shirt-and-pants combo worn with netted long sleeves and tights underneath, and just when you thought you had enough of the Saddle bag, a new variation - very slim, worn almost flat against the body. Also the simple headbands and sleek hairdos by Guido Palau, and of course, the dancers.
Who: The legendary Jane Birkin (the source of inspiration to the Hermes Birkin) performed Baby Alone in Babylon, written by Serge Gainsbourg, her former flame and father to Charlotte Gainsbourg.
Where: Set in the Théâtre Le Palace, guests were seated in tiered cushioned seats as the models made their way from the back of the theatre to the main stage. The Spring/Summer 2019 show is the final leg of a three-part homage to France.
The Low-down: The show setting was once a famous nightclub through the '70s and '80s and Alessandro Michele's direction of dressing the anti-heroes and outcasts with his maximalist geek chic aesthetic fit right in. A 1920s shimmery red number accessorised with a hot pink ostrich-feathered boa and floral embroidered wide brim hat opened the runway performance, followed by a pleated blouse that fanned out at the shoulders held together at the waist by an oversized velvet bow. As for the mens-formal shirting, tailored trousers with bedazzled leather jockstraps and clam shell underpants. No doubt the collection was inspired by the colourful characters that onced partied within the walls of the Théâtre Le Palace.
Buro loves: The American pop culture icons observed through Mickey Mouse bags, Dolly Parton's cartooned likeness on a sweater and the felted red fedora inspired by Janis Joplin.
Who: French native Simon Porte Jacquemus often culminates his childhood memories from the South of France for his designs
Where: The raised runway was set up on the lawn of the Italian Embassy, underneath clear blue skies and beautiful sunlight that set the right tone for the collection's theme.
The Low-down: Named "La Riviera", Jacquemus continues to dress the woman on vacation. It's easy to see his clothes best enjoyed on a beach trip—the relaxed silhouettes of billowy tent dresses, low-cut necklines, colourful swimsuits make the perfect vacay wardrobe to a weekend dedicated to sand and surf. One-shouldered maxi gowns in lightweight see-through fabrics, fringed pareo skirts and thigh-grazing dresses that sit high on the hemline suggests the Jacquemus' girl for Spring/Summer 2019 isn't on a serene retreat... and more on spring break.
Buro loves: The decorated heels on the lace-up pumps constructed from colourful bits and baubles. If you're gonna dance the night away, do it in these embellished babies.
PFW SS19 day 1 in 10 pictures:
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Buro 24/7 Selection