Chanel powered up, Kenzo put the 'disco' in inferno, and Ellery was all about good girls gone bad
Karl Lagerfeld decidedly amp up Chanel's show set with a very fitting theme this season, recreating the Grand Palais to a data center with scores of wiring, processors, and even grids in place. It made sense—after all no one can live without their smartphones at this day and age anymore. But it was interesting that this riff on a futuristic-inclined notion (cables, really!) translated to a collection that had '90s-inspired flat brim baseball caps in shocking neon shades and tweed suits in similar, vivid technicolours. Trust Lagerfeld to stay in tune with the sporty/street aesthetic that's relevant with today's generation, while churning out multiple variations of the iconic Chanel suit. Case in point: grid-like motifs in suits of all sorts, including short snappy jackets and skirts that zip up on the front (most include bold trimmings), short-sleeved tweed vests, and double-breasted jackets with ruffled cuffs. Those who preferred pared-back summery silhouettes will love a handful of blush pink chiffon frocks worthy of the season that were presented in the latter part of the show.
Amidst living statues with ample assets (or real-world proportions) who posed around the show space, models at Kenzo strutted along the catwalk clad in disco-slinging ensembles harkening back to the late '70s to '80s. If this sounds a lot like an unrestrained collection with all the makings of the usual disco-inferno elements, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim will prove you wrong with a slew of high-octane meets kitschy outfits that surprisingly worked rather effortlessly. The simplest looks vary from raw denim, navy, and khaki dresses and wide-sleeve tops tucked inside pants/skirts; while the party animal conceded with paillette sequin dresses, fiery red blouson sleeve coats and tracksuits, and metallic bras worn over white shirts teemed with leather skirts.
Kim Ellery's signature ruffled trails and flares got an edgy reboot this season. A rogue lineup of glossy leather biker jackets and coats in exotic materials caught our eyes, especially so when juxtaposed with skirts with ruffle hemlines. Among the heart-stopping guise were hot pink pants with multiple zippers that were bunched at the ankles, and a seriously badas* pair of lace-up stomper boots that snaked up all the way mid-thigh.