Belgian designer Raf Simons made his debut collection as the new chief creative officer at Calvin Klein a memorable, tongue-wagging one for his audience, fueling an American-youth leaning sentiment while sticking close to the codes of the house. The show began with promising button-down shirts paired with trousers in bold hues and exceptionally tailored suits for men and women, but the standouts were plastic-coated pieces, from feathered dresses to fur coats. The provocative elements of the house were represented via sheer tees with sweater sleeves and dresses that flashed a little of the underbust, but Simons remembered to bring denim into the collection as well with a slew of denim on denim ensembles. Altogether, a collection that might just make editors and buyers take the brand’s ready-to-wear more seriously than before.
Jason Wu celebrated his namesake label’s 10th anniversary with a grown-up collection comprising a mix of casualwear and cocktail numbers. His signature feminine aesthetic was evident with floral-printed ruffled dresses and pantsuits for the power woman, but with growth comes a more refined, elevated veneer—this was palpable with a handful of evening-appropriate dresses guaranteed to charm the socks off his clientele. The hit list included draped dresses in devoré velvet, frocks in satin and embroidered tulle that were expertly cut and sewn together in panels for a shimmery effect, and more.
Kate Spade New York‘s chief creative officer Deborah Lloyd cited 1920s-era flapper Louise Brooks and entertainer Josephine Baker as the main inspiration this season. But Eastern European references were rife in the collection, such as Moroccan rose embroideries and peasant dresses. Animal printed coats (particularly leopard motifs) provided a modern touch to the roundup along with the brand’s signature kitschy animal accessories.
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