Jacquemus
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Who: Ines de la Fressange, Christian Lacroix and ex-Colette co-founder Sarah Andelman were some of the guests at the show.
Where: A trip to Morocco last year inspired his Autumn/Winter 2018 collection.
What: The designer announced the big news that he has been teasing on social media with the #newjob hashtag-a menswear line which is set to launch this June during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
The Low-down: Simon Porte Jacquemus channelled the Moroccan summer into his AW18 collection, with “the colours and the good energy of Morocco” incorporated into the looks. Titled “Le Souk”, expect sun-kissed hues such as orange, red, yellow and brown juxtaposed against cream, navy blue and black. Figure-hugging or not, the pieces exuded that sense of ease, thanks to its flow-with-the-wind silhouettes that may not be cold-weather appropriate, but who cares really? These pieces aside, there were also sweater dressing and tailored looks that gave the collection some added structure.
Buro Loves: Functionality aside, we’re all for the super cute mini totes and the XXL sun hats.
Dior
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Who: Cara Delevingne sat next to Dior’s new CEO, Pietro Beccari. Other front-row faces include Winnie Harlow, Bianca Jagger, and Angelababy.
Where: The Dior show space at Musée Rodin featured magazine covers from 1986, plastered all over the floor and walls. The collage of 3,000 posters took 150 people some three weeks to build.
The Low-down: Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has always championed the call for female empowerment since her first season at the Maison (remember the ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ tees?) This season was no different, with posters plastered all over the show venue with slogans such as ‘Women’s Rights Are Human Rights’ and ‘I Am A Woman’. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s starting point of reference was the social revolution in France 50 years ago, in May 1968. She drew from youth culture then, quoting Diana Vreeland who coined the term ‘Youthquake’—”The Sixties were about personalities,” said Vreeland. “It was the first time when mannequins became personalities. It was a time of great goals, an inventive time…and these girls invented themselves.”
What: Youthful energy abounded in Dior’s sixties-inspired Autumn/Winter 2018 collection. Patchwork pieces were a recurring theme, as was the uniform, primarily in plaid, matched with both kilts (worn with biker boots), or trousers (worn with clogs). Flower power also reigned supreme, rendered in beautifully embroidered coats and sheer dresses.
Buro Loves: The return of the Saddle bag, specifically in patchwork, the plaid uniforms with kilts, utilitarian parkas, and metallic silver coats.
Saint Laurent
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Who: The first three looks out came with hats worn so low that we couldn’t see the models faces, but Kaia Gerber was sighted in the Saint Laurent line-up. Over on the front row, Zoe Kravitz, who was wearing a barely-there cropped top that showed off her toned abs, was spotted amongst Saint Laurent regulars Jane Birkin, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Catherine Deneuve.
Where: Jardins du Trocadéro, directly across from the Eiffel Tower, where Saint Laurent showed last season. This season however, perhaps taking into consideration the Beast from the East (the icy blast coming from Siberia), an indoor space was built instead, with scaffolding supporting lights all around that rivalled the Eiffel Tower’s. Invites stated that the show would start on time at 8pm, which it did – and when guests exited about 15 minutes later, were treated to the glittering Eiffel Tower light show (which typically starts on the hour).
The Low-down: As per Vacarello’s signature, the all-black collection featured short leather shorts (“the legs are not something you have to hide,” he told WWD), delicate sheer blouses, oversized double-breasted leather jackets worn with cropped stovepipes, which carried over to the men’s looks as well. Sharp tuxedo looks were pretty standout for the menswear, which paved way for women’s eveningwear in the form of column gowns with sculptural necklines—restricted drama and oh-so-elegant.
Buro Loves: The finale looks of short, fully embellished floral dresses with Eighties power shoulders and necklines cut down to the navel. Just add crimped hair.
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