Stuart Vevers looked to the streets for Coach‘s retro-tinged collection, citing American artist Keith Haring as inspiration this season. The clothes were an ode to the artist’s interpretation of the Big Apple, with contrasting elements that bidded double takes—including juxtapositions of tender and tough, feminine with gritty, and so on. The house’s iconic pieces such as shearling, varsity jackets and prairie dresses were given a glitzy aesthetic by way of satin, metallic leather, and hardware detailing; while slip dresses were lined with lace for a vintage look. Vevers reimagined Keith Haring’s signature squiggly graphics in various forms on knits, glitter party frocks and outerwear. For the men’s collection, a subversive route was taken, albeit not without a handful of contradictions—case in point, a bomber with Hawaiian prints paired with leather pants, varsity sweater with party-ready satin trousers, and the like.
Ralph Lauren easily took home the best NYFW show setting award this season. The location of the night was Ralph’s Garage in Bedford, New York, where models sashayed amidst the founder’s extensive (and jaw-dropping) automotive collection. Citing his cars as an inspiration—”I see them as moving art”, the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection imbued a timeless spirit that combined the elements of speed and style. A generous use of both traditional and modern fabrics were used, including houndstooth, Glen plaid, patent leather and glossy silk; along with an androgynous spin on womenswear with bespoke menswear techniques. While the colour palette started out in muted shades of grey, pops of colour (primary tones, no less) made the second half of the collection. Standout pieces with racing references include a dress sporting an art-deco grille motif along with a graphic “8”—inspired by Lauren’s very own 1920s Bugatti and a trench dress with red striped racing jacket sleeves.
Another designer who’s making menswear-for-women a trend this SS18 is Gabriela Hearst, whose moodboard had iconic men from different backgrounds including Chet Baker, Keith Richards, and Winston Churchill. Exceptionally tailored suits were a few of the highlights, some in a stiff satin-like material with peak lapels, and others with intriguing motifs such as grid-like patterns and obvious white stitching. Other recurring elements were animal prints and stripes—the former emblazoned over a tie-around skirt and shorts; the latter in merino wool dresses and culottes, paired effortlessly with Hearst’s accordion-pleated Diana bag.
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