See beyond Christiano Siriano’s creations of luxe textured velvet jackets, sequin-embellished gowns and sumptuous metallic jumpsuits, and one will read the designer’s underlying message of diversity, body positivity and unity. The message rang in clear, from the selection of models and FROW guests, to the Depeche Mode song ‘People are People’ that played during the models’ final walk. The title of the song seemed to indicate the unofficial theme of the show, and was also printed on the tee that donned one of the final looks—one that drew cheers from the audience.
For fall, Dion Lee sought to bring forth a more multi-dimensional character to his brand. This was conveyed through structured silhouettes in neutral tones and pops of orange, blue and military green, a collection that spoke of femininity and toughness at once. Scene-stealing utilitarian details came in triangular chain links that slung across sweaters, down straight leg trousers and dangling from eyewear, while texture-rich shearling coats in a camo-like print served as statement pieces on the runway.
If Alexander Wang’s last collection spoke of Californian cool with its beach vibes and sunny colour palette, this season’s show was decidedly different: an almost all-black galore that will fit into a girl’s work-to-play (club) wardrobe. The opening looks were black-on-black, tailored ensembles, where suits and coats were aplenty, before moving on to the party side of things—with leather jackets, pants and hot shorts with silver accents, as well as sexy mesh or cut-out dresses strutting down the runway. No after-party this round, as proclaimed on the invites, because the show was the party.
New York Fashion Week AW17: Highlights of Day 1
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