Fashion

Milan Fashion Week SS24: The best of Versace, Fendi and more

Italian style

27.09.2023

By Benedict Unang

Featured images courtesy of Versace
Milan Fashion Week SS24: The best of Versace, Fendi and more

Following the bustle of New York and London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week commenced with intriguing shows, including Sabato de Sarno’s first-ever Gucci collection, Versace’s celebration of the sixties in Hollywood, and Ferragamo’s nod to Caribbean heritage. Read on to learn more about our favourite shows from the fashion affair.

 

Fendi

 

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Creative director: Kim Jones 

Venue: Via Andrea Solari 

Highlights of the collection: A tribute to the Fendi women who eat, live, and breathe fashion, the latest offering arrives in a delicate palette with accents of bright orange and lemon yellow to illustrate how the ordinary turns extraordinary. There’s a substantial play of masculine tailoring across the line, which blossoms femininely with practicality and comfort courtesy of the fluidity possessed by the silks and knits. Aside from the abstract interpretation of the FF emblem, the asymmetrical silhouette that is distinctive to the label truly struck a chord. 

Key pieces from the line: The layered details on Anok Yai’s cinched-waist dress kicks off the series on the right foot before evening slips, extra-large car coats, as well as skirt suits and work shirt combos emerge on the runway. Major brownie points also go to the leather goods, with Fendi Baguette, Peekaboo, Origami, and First bags existing in both maxi and mini sizes. Not to be overlooked is the new Flip bag that folds into a clutch and the ballet pumps with a gold ankle strap. 

 

Prada

 

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Creative director: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Venue: Fondazione Prada’s Deposito 

Highlights of the collection: The dynamic pair treats everyday garments with edgy elements like leather collars and metal eyelets. Utilitarian style is further heightened when knee-length fringe skirts harmonised with belted short suits, swirl embroidered dresses and printed poplin shirts with fringe. Leather pieces are not lacking nonetheless, as evidenced by the textured cocoon coat and the juxtaposition of a multi-pocketed vest with a dress in patchwork patinated leather. 

Key pieces from the line: The pastel-hued column dress is an absolute stunner as it’s reconstructed with superfine organza and gazar that follow the rhythm of the model wearing them. Additionally, there’s the Mario-designed handbag that has been reimagined into an evening bag with a frame clasp. Other standouts include the high-heeled pumps with a sharply pointed vamp in spazzolato, silk satin and precious leather. 

 

Versace

 

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Creative director: Donatella Versace

Venue: Viale Sarca

Highlights of the collection: Old Hollywood glamour meets powerful yet light and elegant tailoring that echoes youth, self-assurance, and the animating energy of city life. While menswear offers restricted waist jackets and shirts teamed with wide flaring trousers, women’s tailoring features sharp architecture like three-dimensional necklines, reduced collarless coats and the ever-present bustier. Twisted and knotted pieces inspired by the SS95 collection are updated with transparent georgette and jersey. 

Key pieces from the line: Among the pieces that caught our eye were the muted pinafore dresses and vintage co-ord sets adorned with the Versace rose and the Versace Contrasto checkerboard pattern. There’s also the unique Barocco print that is embossed on silk-blend duchesse and appears as macramé frames. Meanwhile, the Medusa ’95 with belt detail and the updated Greca Goddess in metallic leather are the perfect picks to complete the ensemble. 

 

Ferragamo

 

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Creative director: Maximilian Davis 

Venue: Palazzo Delle Scintille 

Highlights of the collection: The British designer pays homage to his Caribbean roots by refreshing the House’s codes with hints of lush green and sky blue to bring out the airiness of the fabric and its structure. At the same time, basic linens and cottons are manipulated to look like leather, whilst expressive wooden ornaments and details are treated to perfection. Beyond that, the storied Calypso heel is reinvented using 3D printing technology, and classics like Oxfords, moccasins, and driver shoes are deconstructed or infused with contrasting vitello latex.

Key pieces from the line: Day dresses with deep V-necklines, thigh-high shorts, and twisted T-shirts all embody casual elegance. The collarless blazers with cape sleeves and maxi dresses à la 18th-century Caribbean gowns add a fun touch to the series. Together with the lavish Fiamma shoulder bag, the Hug bag returns in several different styles, and the frame bag has been revamped with wooden beads in keeping with the season. 

 

Bottega Venetta

 

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Creative director: Matthieu Blazy 

Venue: Bovisa district 

Highlights of the collection: In a setting filled with elements from almost every corner of the world, Blazy takes us on a voyage around the world to embrace the past, present, and future. The pleasure of dressing without barriers is celebrated as the models parade down the runway in garments with cactus and nautilus shell motifs and floral patterns, along with designs inspired by fireworks and rock formations. In memory of the ‘Italia Trilogy that came to an end last season, pieces from previous offerings are stored inside the massive, basket-woven intrecciato bags and duffles. 

Key pieces from the line: The two-tone Pocahontas-inspired dress and the multicoloured half-shoulder dress are, without a doubt, the most eye-catching. Similarly, the marriage of textured fabric with a streamlined material is exquisite. Last but not least, the wonderfully constructed leather bags have become our new obsession thanks to their huge silhouette and elaborate embellishments, such as the sardine-shaped handles, tropical leaf patterns, plus raffia and rope textures. 

 

 

 

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