“Very sportswear, but nothing designed for a workout.” Tomas Maier’s vision for spring is one of elevated leisurewear painted in soft sunset hues. The mood was optimistic and things were kept light; even the menswear did not see the corner of a notched lapel. Dusky pastels gave off a lustrous romanticism by way of shimmering embellishment and cloth. Rarely can grommets, spangles, fringing, and patchwork harmoniously coexist within a collection (co-ed, no less) without the pardon of a more-is-more intention. But under the direction of Maier, not only did the snazzy surface treatment gel with his honeyed palette, it was why it truly shined.
Glossy, rippling and translucent. An aqueous quality flowed through the collection at Salvatore Ferragamo last night. Supported by an on-theme translucent runway of reflective acrylic panes, models draped in languid silhouettes cut from liquid silks and glassy organdy recalled the sumptuous drapery in renaissance paintings. Inklings of structure came through with a variation of waist belts and bustier cups, alongside several opening looks in exotic skin. Much attention however, was diverted to the accessories. Expect lucite heels with criss-cross straps, boxy carriers and gibbous shoulder bags to dominate shelf displays when seasons change.
For their debut at Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier unpicked the seams of the label to distill its essence while weaving through a thread of their combined repertoires. The binary codes of stark minimalism and buoyant femininity they uncovered were reinterpreted in a lineup that progressed from austere floor length ensembles in monochromes to arbitrary concoctions involving macramé trailing over and under tailored wear. Worth noting were the updated white shirts—new shapes with inflated sleeves, tunic lengths, and strapping details could be the perfect excuse to a closet expansion.
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