If what was seen at Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana, AW16 is promising a huge explosion of colour. Perhaps in part due to the transeasonal approach fashion is leaning towards, gone are the days when bright colours were reserved for spring and darker, muted tones for the colder months.
Consuelo Castiglioni’s sense of proportion and use of colour is second to none. Big, clunky earrings, oversized paillettes and beautiful embroidered glen plaid (Looks 25, 26): Marni was a wonderful hodgepodge of elements that by nature should not even be in the same room but by Castiglioni’s razor sharp instincts, it all worked.
Though the first look sent out at Salvatore Ferragamo was an all black affair, the rest of the looks to follow were peppered with brilliant flashes of summertime hues. Fuschia, yellow, coral, vermillion, blue and kelly green lifted the fog of winter and offered the promise of a new spring. We particularly loved the chevron details seen on boxy shoulder bags, dresses and even as a detail on the waistband of a skirt.
All girls (and some boys) dream of being a princess and Dolce & Gabbana set out to feed that fantasy. The set was a dreamscape that had Snow White’s mirror, Cinderella’s pumpkin coach and Sleeping Beauty’s bed, but the clothes were the true stars. Tailor mice, nut crackers, pumpkins, castles and a whole slew of fairy tale tropes were printed and embroidered on dresses, coats and bags but nothing seemed too gimmicky. Why shouldn’t fashion transport you to another time and place? We particularly loved the gorgeous roses (referencing Briar Rose?) that were embroidered on an exploded houndstooth coat (Look 23). Dolce & Gabbana always ends with a final charge and the models took their final turn in a parade of glittery pink and silver cocktail dresses. What a buoyant affair!
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