About Time: The Women Leading the Charge in Luxury Watches

Breaking through a male-dominated space is a tall order even for the most skilled and successful. Despite the changing social and political landscapes, progress seems to stall at every glance, moving forward in quiet inches. The shift is even slower in the ultra-exclusive boys’ club that is the world of watchmaking. Getting a seat at the table requires more than technical know-how, design vision, and business acumen. While some climb the ladder, following the well-trodden path, others take matters into their own hand through tactical takeovers. As International Women’s Day draws near, we raise a glass to these women who have worked their way past every barrier in the industry and come out on top.

CHRISTINE HUTTER (MORITZ GROSSMANN)

Christine Hutter was en route to becoming a sportswoman before curiosity nudged her onto the path she’s on today. A three-year watchmaking training in Munich exposed her to the wonders of watchmaking as she tried her hand at restoring historical pieces. Her growing interest eventually led her to Glashütte, the epicentre of Germany’s watchmaking tradition, where she honed her craft at Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne. It was there that she came upon the name Moritz Grossmann.

Determined to make a name for herself, she threw her hat in the ring, vying for the rights to the brand with the help of her family. Needless to say, she succeeded. The heritage house, which had been collecting dust for over a century, made a promising return in 2008. The Eichstätt-born took the helm as the owner and chief executive officer (CEO). The road to recovery might’ve been rocky, but Hutter delivered the first Moritz Grossmann model of the new era two years later, the Benu watch.

The brand then went on an upward trajectory, prompting it to relocate in 2013, moving into a new manufacture building on Uferstrasse 1 in Glashütte. The focus was to develop movements and production tools, and eventually to build its distribution. Today, Moritz Grossmann stands tall among its contemporaries. Hutter’s vision to honour traditional methods without regurgitating old designs—exemplified by the rose gold Backpage model—has served the brand well.

CHRISTELLE ROSNOBLET (SPEAKE MARIN)

Started as a collector, whose journey began with a simple quartz Swatch, Christelle Rosnoblet has established herself as a force to be reckoned with. The turning point in her career came when she met London-based watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin at the 2011 Geneva Time Exhibition. Discovering an instant connection with his eponymous label, she seized the opportunity presented before her, acquiring Speake Marin just a year later.

The shake-up that followed took the brand to new heights. Armed with a background in retail, Rosnoblet pulled a number of strategic moves as the owner and CEO of the company. Those include investing in and later becoming a shareholder of the Le Cercle des Horlogers. Based in Switzerland’s La Chaux-de-Fonds, the watchmaking workshop is renowned for its haute horlogerie movement research and development.

This decision has yielded significant benefits. It has allowed the brand to control the development of all of its watches, ensure movement quality standards, and be independent in movement sourcing. To date, the workshop has produced no less than 12 ground-breaking movements that have become symbols of Speake Marin excellence. One of those innovations is the SMA07 automatic skeleton calibre, which debuted in 2024, powering the Ripples Skeleton watch.

ILARIA RESTA (AUDEMARS PIGUET)

Something shifted when Audemars Piguet announced the appointment of Ilaria Resta as its new CEO, succeeding François-Henry Bennahmias, a couple of years ago. For one, it marked the first time the brand ever had a woman lead its operation. But her recruitment brought more than just a breath of fresh air. For an industry that has traditionally been insular, electing someone whose background doesn’t immediately match the expectations for this position is a risky move.

But that is not to say that the hiring was unmerited. Resta brought with her two decades’ worth of experience in brand strategy, sales, and financial oversight. She had previously served at Procter & Gamble as a senior vice president and at Firmenich as global perfumery and beauty president. Having her in its ranks has given the watchmaker a new vantage point, which overlooks an entirely different horizon, one that offers endless possibilities and opportunities.

What some had initially considered a gamble has, in fact, paid off in spades. Last year, the trades reported that the brand had recorded a sales increase of 12 per cent compared to the year before, raking in approximately a whopping CHF2.3 billion. It was no mean feat given the market uncertainties at the time. Resta showed no sign of slowing down as she introduced a whole new Executive Leadership Team shortly after, signalling an exciting new chapter at Audemars Piguet.