Geneva Watch Days 2023: 7 Remarkable novelties you shouldn’t miss

Keeping the legacy alive


By Benedict Unang

Featured images courtesy of respective brands
Geneva Watch Days 2023: 7 Remarkable novelties you shouldn’t miss

Fans of horology have been swarming Geneva over the last few days, as Geneva Watch Days takes place from August 29 to September 2, 2023. This is the salon’s largest exhibition to date, with approximately 40 watch brands presenting their latest releases at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc pavilion on Lake Geneva, in addition to boutiques and venues all over the city. Ahead, we’ve rounded up seven of our top picks from the five-day-long event, ranging from Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold to the De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue. 


Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold


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Bulgari launched six timepieces for the occasion, but the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold watch attracted our attention the most. First introduced in 2014, the latest model arrives in two versions and stands out with its ultra-thin case and strap made of anthracite-coloured carbon that harmonises with the luminous rose gold crown and hour markers. The dials, however, set themselves apart in that the automated version features a small seconds counter while the other sports a retrograde date and leap year indicator, as well as day and month sub-dials.  


Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry


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Ulysse Nardin remains at the forefront of revolutionary developments, this time with the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry. The new timepiece features a captivating blue marquetry dial with 103 slivers delicately hand set along with the movement that glides effortlessly over them. The appeal of the Blast model is further amplified by an artistically crafted laser-cut white gold case. More importantly, the use of an ultra-glass box allows one to admire movement components from multiple angles. 


Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute 8Tech

Girard-Perregaux revives the classic Laureato Absolute with an octagonal case crafted from non-woven carbon fibres and lightweight titanium powder using the 8Tech technology. When looked at closely, the 44mm watch sports a gradient grey dial with a trio of sub-dials arranged in 3-6-9 format and a date window at four-thirty o’clock. Something else to note is the black rubber strap with grey contrast stitching on the sides that lends it a sporty edge. 


MB&F Horological Machine No. 9 Sapphire Vision


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Following the release of the Horological Machine No. 9 ‘Flow’ in 2018, MB&F enhanced the product with the Horological Machine No. 9 ‘Sapphire Vision’ editions. This time, the one-of-a-kind movement can be observed via the clear casing made of sapphire crystal and precious metal. What’s more, the watch incorporates a new shock-absorbing system between the movement and the case to minimise shock sensitivity even further. The latest entry to the series is available in six editions, with each having a limited edition of five pieces. 


De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue


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De Bethune achieves a perfect balance between past and present with the DB28XP Kind of Blue. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide, the freshly released offering is an extension of the House’s iconic models and embraces the colour blue to the fullest. The wristwatch sits in a polished blue-tinged titanium case and offers a blued titanium face that exposes a structural union of space, time, and light, as well as the balance wheel visible via the opening at six o’clock. The navy blue alligator strap additionally completes the look. 


Urwerk UR-100V Stardust


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If you’re into the universe and all that glitters, the Urwerk UR-100V Stardust is a visual feast for the eyes. The case, for instance, is snow-set with 400 brilliant-cut diamonds, as is the large crown, adorned with 24 diamonds and a steel pin clasp with two rows of 11 diamonds each. The new creation also maintains the House’s iconic satellite display with two recesses on the edges of its satellite carrier. Beyond that, the self-winding watch is powered by UR 12.02 movement with a power reserve of up to 48 hours. 


Oris x Bracenet


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Oris takes another step towards sustainability by partnering with social enterprise Bracenet to create Oris x Bracenet—a limited-edition version of the Aquis Date diver’s watch. Housed in a multi-piece stainless steel casing, the unique timepiece possesses a kaleidoscopic dial built of little green, blue, and white offcuts from recycled ‘ghost’ and end-of-life nets. The best part is that there are no additives, fillers, or glues used in the construction of the dial, making each dial unlike any other. 




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