New York Fashion Week AW25: The Best of Calvin Klein, Tory Burch and More
Runway recap
As the curtain falls on Haute Couture Week, all eyes turn to New York, where reinvention reigns and style never stands still. This season, Calvin Klein makes a much-anticipated runway return, Tory Burch brings fresh sophistication to sportswear, and Coach seamlessly blends heritage with modernity. Ahead, we recap some of our favourite shows from the city that never sleeps.
Calvin Klein
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Creative director: Veronica Leoni
Venue: 205 West 39th Street
Highlights of the collection: After a six-year hiatus, Calvin Klein reclaims the runway with Veronica Leoni at the helm. A reflection on American beauty, the collection embraces monumental minimalism—where precision meets fluidity, and restraint yields to expression. Sharp tailoring softens into embroidery and embellishment, then flows into ethereal organza and liquid draping, before finding its way back to structured clarity. The brand’s signature neutrals—black, granite, off-white, and porcelain—anchor the collection, while Barolo, raspberry, and pale citron disrupt with quiet confidence.
Key pieces from the line: Texture shapes the evolution of wardrobe staples this season, where the coat, suit, and silk blouse are reinterpreted with a tactile sensibility. Supple wool and cashmere offer warmth and depth, while gabardine and twill introduce a crisp, structured edge. A soft sensuality lingers throughout, from the graceful drape of a slip dress to the casual appeal of a knitted Henley. Other than that, the CK One bottle takes on a new form as a clutch, introducing an unexpected playful detail to the lineup.
Tory Burch
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Creative director: Tory Burch
Venue: Museum of Modern Art
Highlights of the collection: Sportswear gets a high-end makeover, twisted with luxurious materials that make it feel fresh. Old favourites like cardigans, sweatpants and sweaters are transformed with fabrics that are intentionally aged—brushed alpaca, frayed tweed and velvet woven with metallic threads. These pieces are designed to become the ones women return to time after time, setting a new standard for classics.
Key pieces from the line: More than just a well-chosen colour palette, this collection thrives on a bold mix of materials and construction. Think a cut-out dress in corduroy, a quarter-zip fleece in needle-punched wool, and rugby shirts in plush Japanese jerseys. The handbags embrace soft textures too, with the Eleanor bag in pillowy leather and the Romy bucket bag in rich cognac suede and faux croc. Footwear also evolves, as the Twisted Pump returns in a sleek T-strap and slingback sandal.
Michael Kors
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Creative director: Michael Kors
Venue: Terminal Warehouse
Highlights of the collection: Kors reimagines contemporary power dressing with a sophisticated balance of structure and ease. Sleek, menswear-inspired coats and jackets lend definition to pleated skirts and trousers, while airy layers soften the look with fluidity. Meanwhile, liquid silk overshirts and draped blouses offer an effortless transition from desk to dinner.
Key pieces from the line: Luxury is in the details, from plush shearlings to enveloping blanket layers and refined knitwear with a modern slant. Boots made a strong statement, with ankle and riding styles lifted by sculptural heels. And the bags? Minimal in design, maximum in impact—bowling bags, satchels, and oversized clutches exude effortless polish.
Coach
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Creative director: Stuart Vevers
Venue: Park Avenue Armory
Highlights of the collection: Vevers’ latest collection reinterprets American classics through a modern lens. Influenced by the character of vintage finds, the silhouette experiments with contrast—billowing trousers in denim, moleskin, and suiting fabrics are paired with fitted T-shirts, sweatshirts and jackets. The palette stays true to Coach’s heritage with deep brown and subtly faded black, while other shades emerge from the materials themselves—melange jersey, light-wash denim, dazzling bits of metallic knits and elaborate beading.
Key pieces from the line: Cropped cardigans with suede patches are worn over pocket tees and baggy pants, creating harmony in contrast. Dresses come in shift, tank, and drop-pleated designs, drawing from 1920s elegance. A fresh addition to the runway, the Twin Pocket bag reimagines a 1968 Coach design, joining the Brooklyn and Empire bags, now reintroduced in smaller, playful proportions. Rounding out the collection, the Soho Sneaker steps up in a mix of textures, including leather, suede, and bold leopard print.
Thom Browne
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Creative director: Thom Browne
Venue: The Shed
Highlights of the collection: Traditional menswear tailoring steps into a new era, elevated by intricate details—suede elbow patches, contrast collars, and self-covered buttons. Then comes modular shirting in vibrant gingham silk with removable collars and cuffs reminiscent of Gilded Age tuxedo shirts. Our favourite part? Sudanese supermodel Alek Wek closes the show in a grey suit jacket embroidered with gold bullion, juxtaposed with a sweeping ball skirt sculpted from 40 metres of heritage tweed—a vision of workmanship in motion.
Key pieces from the line: Heritage meets modern craftsmanship in a suede varsity jacket and tweed football pinny. Skirts and shorts in varying lengths add contrast, while a show-stopping trompe l’oeil dress—shimmering with 3,500 Swarovski crystals—pays tribute to the House’s signature uniform. Finishing touches include luggage bags, tuxedo slippers, and brogued suede longwings.
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