The fashion powerhouse of Saint Laurent is inextricably linked with a significant shift in culture that redefined womenswear as we know it. When its visionary founder, French couturier Yves Saint Laurent, unveiled the revolutionary ‘Le Smoking’ female tuxedo in 1966, it became the very totem of power dressing. The substantial influence of the famous suit encapsulates the singular aim of Monsieur Saint Laurent and his eponymous label—to empower women through garments that liberate. At present, with Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the Maison, the creative director has pushed the late founder’s legacy into modern times, enhancing its influence further in the industry. Through Saint Laurent’s Winter ’22 collection, Vaccarello defines power dressing of the 21st century.
Designed for the contemporary woman, Saint Laurent’s Winter ’22 collection embraces the allure of simplicity in deconstructed minimalism. Paying tribute to the enigmatic founder’s love for Art Deco, Vaccarello imbued the radical elan in the collection’s pieces “more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations,” as per the show notes. While honouring the brand’s distinct design codes, the creative director revolutionalised the Maison’s signature silhouettes with dramatic fresh proportions in a subdued matte palette, contrasted by stacks of chunky bracelets cast in silver, gold and bronze to set the patent charm of Saint Laurent.
Each piece sets forth an air of confidence from within, done precisely through quiet details at the seams, provoking a feeling that speaks louder than words. From engulfing faux fur coats to oversized blazers, broad-shouldered silhouettes are seen throughout the collection, juxtaposed against delicate, feminine elements in flowy floor-length satin dresses, floral laces, and sheer fabric with modern Parisian elegance. Footwear for Winter ’22 presents variations of sleek black leather pumps, as well as chic strappy heels with a classic flair, emanating a timeless sophistication that effortlessly completes any look.
In the case of the heritage power suit, what was once a feminine interpretation of the tailored-fit men’s tuxedo, Vaccarello has metamorphosed into a selection of streamlined tuxedos in relaxed, slouched silhouettes that exude a bold yet overt sex appeal. For Winter ‘22 as a whole, Anthony Vaccarello has flawlessly reimagined Monsieur Saint Laurent’s vision to empower the modern woman and further cemented his legacy in the current century.
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