Max Mara
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Who: Spotted in the model line-up: familiar faces such as Lara Stone and Candice Swanepoel.
What: A colour palette of black and nudes with a dose of soft and hot pinks.
The Low-down: Max Mara gave power dressing a new definition this season, by letting women dress however they want. Saying “classic doesn’t have to be conservative”, signature separates were given that dramatic allure with head-turning details. For example, sway-with-every-move fringes were incorporated into its signature camel coats, checked pantsuits and dresses had leather suspenders hanging off both sides of the waist, and leopard prints in different sizes and colours were layered over one another for that glam finish. The looks were pulled together by a punk aura—models walked the show with kohl-rimmed eyes and dreadlocks-esque hair that added to the don’t-mess mood.
Buro Loves: The graphic T-shirts and sweaters are from the brand’s collaboration with artist François Berthoud.
Fendi
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Who: Karl Lagerfeld’s beard is here to stay. After making an appearance at Paris Haute Couture week with his new look earlier this year, the designer continued to rock the scruffy look when he took his bow with Silvia Venturini Fendi.
What: The brand debuted a new bag for the Autumn/Winter 2018 season—a Double F bag, which is a “two-sided chain bag featuring ‘F’ corner frames on one side, and the round Fendi stamp on the other”.
The Low-down: The collection was described as “for a romantic uniform in a woman’s world”. In an attempt to combine softness and strength, feminine pieces were given an edgy juxtaposition, whether it’s in the form of structured box shoulders (the cropped cape may be the next accessory du jour), or with a pair of western boots in a double Cuban heel—in 48 variations, to be exact. Inspired by a lady’s handkerchief, there were also romantic silk dresses and blouses that feature needlepoint collars and encrusted lace. These aside, Fendi continues to feed our logomania obsession with double F logos spotted on coats, scarves and bags.
Buro Loves: The Fendi-Fila logo sweaters created by artist Reilly that will be the next streetwear staple. They were first spotted at the menswear show earlier this month.
Prada
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Who: American supermodel-turned-actress Amber Valletta, Sasha Pivarova, and Liu Wen walked alongside up-and-coming It-girls such as Kaia Gerber and Kris Grikaite.
Where: As opposed to its usual spot at the Prada HQ, the AW18 show was at the newly built building near the Fondazione Prada that gives an incredible view of the city skyline.
What: The show was spread over two floors—models had to walk up a flight of stairs for each look.
The Low-down: Prior to the show yesterday, the brand has announced a special Instagram take-over by virtual influencer Lil Miquela, accompanied with special Prada GIFs that can be found on Instagram Stories. But mini digital projects aside, the collection did the talking on its own. Set in a neon colour palette—refreshing for the cold season, for sure—the clothes revolved around an industrial theme, complete with the models’ IDs clipped in front. Utilitarian co-ords were paired with rubber boots and nylon leg warmers, finished off with ladylike touches in the form of bright tulle bows; oversized vests, bucket hats and goggles-like eyewear were worn with fringed plastic skirts.
Buro Loves: Remember the flame heels that were first introduced in Spring 2012? They have made a comeback at the AW18 show in new silhouettes.
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