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The best of PFW AW19 day 7: Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen

The best of PFW AW19 day 7: Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen

Leading ladies

Text: Joan Kong


Image: IMaxtree

Stella McCartney and Sarah Burton gave femininity that amp-me-up this season

Stella McCartney

Who: Oprah made a surprise appearance at the show, and needless to say the crowd went wild. Doutzen Kroes, Halima Aden, and Karlie Kloss all ditched the catwalk in favour of the #FROW.

Where: The designer recently launched a There She Grows campaign, dedicated to raise awareness and funds to protect the Leuser Ecosystem in Sumatra, Indonesia. One of the celebrities who is participating in the cause, include our very own Neelofa.

The low-down: This season, Stella McCartney looked to the Northern Soul—a music and dance movement in the late '60s from the British mod scene—for references, and her aim? To empower everyone to look and feel their very best. Utilitarian vibes were strong in this collection—Kaia Gerber strutted down the runway in an army green jumpsuit, and Sora Choi donned a button-down maxi shirtdress with curved hems, complete with a tan belt that cinched the waist. Some of the ensembles are more than meets the eye: one of the colourful dress was upcycled using vintage T-shirts that are stripped, knotted and knitted; and the circular hardware that can be spotted on trousers and coats were a nod to McCartney's hope for a circular economy.

Buro loves: Tattoos may be the last thing you expect from a Stella McCartney show, but this season, the brand created a series of temporary ones that says "vegan", "fur free fur", "regenerate", and "earth day every day", and with the help of makeup artist Pat McGrath, they were applied on the models' ears, ear lobes, neck and fingers.

 

Alexander McQueen

Who: The hairstyle this season is a dramatic twist on a classic ponytail. Hair was tied with extra-long leather strands designed by hair guru Guido Paulo. In a backstage interview with Vogue, the hairstylist says, "the look is very tough and boyish, but also has a fetish feel, which is very McQueen."  

Where: The show was held at the Lycée Carnot, one of the most prestigious high schools in France.

The low-down: "I went home for this collection, back to where she grew up in the North of England, surrounded by mill towns and wild countryside," states Sarah Burton in her show notes. To let show-goers experience that part of her life, the "seats" at the show, were bolts of wool fabrics that the brand used in the collection. Hard and soft details were perfectly and beautifully juxtaposed, resulting in a line that exudes powerful femininity like no other. Structured, nipped-at-the-waist jackets had asymmetrical drapes on one side, leather fit-and-flare dress featured cut-outs in florals, and studded biker jacket was paired with fluffy tulle skirt that gave the silhouette an added interest. The accessories that complemented the looks include hoop earrings that go all the way down the ear, metal chokers that came with thick chains, and chunky bracelets adorning the wrist.

Buro loves: We found the dress of our dreams in the form of a silver gown embroidered with laser-cut metal heddle, complemented with glass stones, sequins and beads that gave the look an industrial finish. 

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