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The best of PFW AW19 day 2: Lanvin and Maison Margiela

The best of PFW AW19 day 2: Lanvin and Maison Margiela

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Text: Joan Kong


Image: IMaxtree

Bruno Sialelli presented his debut collection at Lanvin, and John Galliano let the clothes speak for him at Maison Margiela

Lanvin

Who: Only one month after the announcement of his appointment as creative director at Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli presented his first runway collection for the brand for Autumn/Winter 2019. The designer was previously the head of menswear at Loewe. 

Where: The venue of choice, was at the Musée Cluny, where models walked down tiled floors against a wooden backdrop.

The low-down: During a preview, Sialelli revealed to WWD that, "We know Lanvin is an eveningwear house where you find beautiful flou and colours. But Jeanne [Lanvin] was also one of the first to do a wide proposition of womenswear, menswear and sportswear, curtains and furniture. She was what we would call today a lifestyle [designer]." Taking cues from the founder of the brand, the French designer aimed to translate that into his collection this season, sending down both womens' and mens' looks, and on top of that, launching an array of arm candies (that are worth lusting over), from an oversized tote to a small top-handle bag. Clothes-wise, there were influences derived from several places-the 1982 film, Querelle, inspired the sailor jackets and other hints of nautical details, the dragon motif and manuscript-like print derived from its founder's love for medieval art, and South American folklore radiated by the ponchos and knits with the new 'JL' logo.

Buro loves: Although the overall vibe was a reminiscent of his previous employer, Loewe, we liked the freshness he brought to the 130-year-old fashion house. We'll be keeping our eyes peeled for what's to come next.

 

Maison Margiela

Who: It's Creative director John Galliano's fifth year at the French fashion house.

Where: Unlike most brands who showcased at awe-inspiring venues, John Galliano opted for a pared down set—a plain white runway was all he needed this season.

The low-down: To give the mostly black-and-khaki collection that amp-me-up, the designer turned to unique shapes and silhouettes that speak for itself. Pillowy coats-inspired by the brand's signature Grand Slam bags-were spotted on both men and women. Tailoring took centre stage this season, although you can count on the designer to inject his own flair. Case in point: pantsuits with exposed stitching for that undone allure, double-breasted coats with pagoda-like shoulders, and skirt-suits with an oversized outerwear, nipped at the waist.

Buro loves: The pops of vibrance in the form of leggings and prints layered under coats or plastered on a dress or two. 

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