10 Standout shows from Men’s Spring/Summer 2020 Fashion Month
All you need to know
Spanning across New York, London, Florence, Milan and Paris, Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 has come and gone again, and over the last three weeks, there have been nothing short of surprises. From a show at McDonald's (yes, you read that right) to an unexpected collaboration that got everyone talking (and lusting over), below are some of the most standout Men's shows this season:
Hello and goodbye
At Pitti Uomo, creative director Clare Waight Keller showcased her first full-blown menswear collection for Givenchy. The inspiration? A mix of '80s and '90s vibe with an unexpected twist—Seoul's street style culture. The show opened with tonal suits in a relaxed silhouette, where oversized suits and baggy trousers are paired with high-neck tops while, some, bared. Other pieces such as a slick nylon parka, oversized T-shirts and utilitarian chain belts amped up the street-cool vibe of the collection, including one from their collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger.
Like Clare Waight Keller, Sies Marjan's creative director Sander Lak first debuted a men's capsule line last AW19, and his first full-range of menswear this SS20 also marks his first time showing outside of the brand's base in New York City. At the seventh floor of the Opera Bastille, models walked the corridor of the building in a collection that has been described as "an exploration of fragility and male sexuality". Playing with the juxtaposition of different colours and silhouettes, the designer took a softer approach through a rainbow of colours (baby blue, dark neutrals, sage green and more) and a mixture of intricate fabrics, such as silk and organza.
After news broke last month about their impending departure (the designer duo has been with the brand for eight years), creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon staged their final show for Kenzo in Paris. Featuring a musical score and a performance by Solange, models were spotted in aquatic-themed looks with nautical elements referenced from Japanese female divers called 'Ama'. Some of the key pieces include the neoprene suits, track jackets and trousers, and of course, the brand's signature graphic prints plastered on long outerwear, with colourblocked sandals and mesh bags sealing the ensembles.
You know you're in for a treat when the show is staged in collaboration with the director of Call Me By Your Name, Luca Guadagnino. Instead of its usual venue at the Fendi HQ, the brand moved its show to the gardens of Villa Reale, where a fashion-meets-picnic show came to live. Set on a gravel pathway, guests sat on wicker chairs and each had a straw picnic basket filled with breakfast—talk about starting the day right! To complement the location, the gardening-themed collection featured some of the cutest accessories, such as watering-can bags, gardening gloves and beekeeper-inspired hats, which gave the mostly muted clothing in beige, army green and black that pick-me-up.
Think fashion and fast food don't go well together? Vetements just proved us wrong with a show staged in a Parisian McDonalds'. After teasing the guests with condom invites, Demna Gvasalia took over the fast food restaurant on the Champs Élysée for a show filled with on-theme outfits. This season, the designer played with an idea surrounding capitalism, with literal workwear such as security guards and McDonald's workers' uniforms, familiar logos—Heineken, PlayStation and Bose, to name a few—given a cheeky spin, and tongue-in-cheek statements like I Love Paris... Hilton for laughs. Some models even held a portion of fries as they walked down the store.
What do you do when the day of your show coincides with Fête de la Musique, Paris' annual all-night music celebration? For Olivier Rousteing, he staged a fashion and music festival in the heart of the city and welcomed over 1,500 guests from the public. The men's show featuring over blended seamlessly into the line-up, where musicians including Darren Criss and Years & Years performed a medley of '80s hits. Striking the right balance between polished and edgy, the collection was everything a cool kid (men and women, included) will dream of. Opening with all-white looks, the show progressed into silver ensembles filled with mirrored detailing, denim, and iridescent hues that were all infused with the silhouette of the '80s. To make the event extra special, the designer also partnered with the AIDS charity (RED), where donations and profits from the festival merch, food and drink, will go to the cause.
For his second Spring/Summer Men's show, Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by Mick Jagger, and Marrakech in the '70s reimagined as a modern-day Los Angeles. To give guests that full Californian vibe, Anthony Vaccarello took over Paradise Cove with a runway right on the private beach. Models walked on a black boardwalk to the music of the crashing waves, and as usual, guests were seated on one side only for an undisrupted view of the looks (and the scenic backdrop). Most of the looks were an ode to the rock icon's stage outfits from the Rolling Stones' 1975 tour—satin bomber jacket worn with metallic tank tops, printed shirts unbuttoned to reveal the décolletage and more. And to amp up the Moroccan inspiration, harem pants and slouchy cardigans that are peppered with glitter sealed the looks.
Simon Porte Jacquemus has never been one to shy away from beautiful shows, but this season, he outdid himself with a show in Provence, South of France, to mark the 10th anniversary of his brand. Set in the middle of a lavender field, a bright pink carpet served as the runway of Jacquemus' Le Coup de Soleil Spring/Summer 2020 show. The pictures were stunning. The collection, on the other hand, didn't run far from the designer's feminine countryside aesthetic, and the colour palette is filled with soft hues in the form of Hawaiian-esque shirts and polo T-shirts, and for women, breezy maxi dresses that are perfect for the 'gram. We also spotted some utilitarian pieces such as cargo trousers and parkas which add to the ruggedness of the dreamy collection.
For Spring/Summer 2020, Virgil Abloh "lionises the instinctive, the habitual and the natural." Boyhood remained an ongoing exploration for the brand, and the flowers and foliage were the metaphoric details that were present in the collection. Florals were found on the streets of Place Dauphine, a routine walk from the Louis Vuitton studios, and translated into prints, whether it's On crocheted sweaters or adorning the duffle bags. One thing's for sure: prepare to see more men in florals in the seasons to come. As though the collection wasn't talk-worthy enough, Abloh also included some famous faces in the model line-up, including South Korean rapper Mino, and Arsenal defender Héctor Bellerín.
This season, artistic director Kim Jones took on a modern and futuristic approach with the help of radical artist Daniel Arsham. While polished tailoring was the mainstay of the collection, each of the looks had an eye-catching detail that gave them an added interest, be it long satin lapels or obi sashes. Other standout pieces include newspaper-print co-ords, a croc-embossed jumpsuit and a cracked Dior logo shirt. Aside from that, after Rimowa featured Kim Jones in its latest campaign last month, it turned out that the collaboration is mutual, as Dior debuted a selection of accessories, from backpacks and clutches to sling bags and full-sized luggages-some in metallic, and some, covered in the brand's signature Oblique print. If the Supreme x Rimowa collab (which sold out in 16 seconds) is any indication, we're confident that this will be another record-breaking line.