Maison Margiela
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Who: John Galliano’s SS19 presentation for Maison Margiela coincides with the launch of his first fragrance for the House since taking over as creative director in 2014.
The Low-down: Galliano staged a co-ed runway that was unlike any other. It is not uncommon for us to see women dressed in what was traditionally menswear on the runway, but in Galliano’s ‘Mutiny’—also the name of his newly-launched fragrance for the House—male models were clad in dresses, skirts and other spliced creations. But he wasn’t trying to “make girls looks like boys or boys look like girls… The idea is to try and incorporate the very concept of transformation into cutting”, as explained in the latest Maison Margiela podcast series, ‘The Memory of…’. The series’ concept was also carried in the clothes. The opening look featured a herringbone tweed skirt worn as a cape and cut into the memory of a jacket, elsewhere a shift dress is cut into the memory of a bustier dress, and a jacket into that of a swimsuit.
Buro Loves: The lozenge skirts in a smokey grey clear material that seem to be pieced together with metallic rings—everyday staples with an avant-garde touch.
Dries Van Noten
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Who: Dries Van Noten’s new collection is for women with an attitude, with confidence that shows in little gestures like the way she stands or the way she holds her bag.
Where: The show was set against a crisp white space, the perfect backdrop for the ensuing pops of colours that came down the runway.
The Low-down: It was not as rich a tapestry as we are so used to from the maestro of prints and pattern, but by no means was that a bad thing. Clean stripes, pretty florals and watercolour motifs punctuate the looks alongside a bright colour palette of canary yellow, Kelly green and electric blue juxtaposed with neutral hues. It made for a highly desirable collection thanks to its wearability intertwined with couture and utilitarian notions—polarising elements that work beautifully together under Dries’ deft hands.
Buro Loves: The boardroom chic navy pantsuit with feathers peeking out from one side of the lapel for a touch of flourish.
Rochas
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Who: Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s had a busy fashion season. After showcasing his No. 21 label’s collection in Milan, his collaboration with Tod’s was unveiled at a breakfast press conference in Paris shortly after. He closes out this season with another fantastic showing at Rochas.
Where: The runway was set in the foyer of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, just opposite the Eiffel Tower.
The Low-down: Rochas SS19 is a display of equal parts glamour and sophistication. Want to take on the leopard trend for work? The opening looks are a lesson on how to wear leopard-on-leopard with finesse, printed on taffeta for a gentle glimmer against the bold motif. Drama came in the form of lavish ostrich feathers stitched on crushed velvet, accessorised with gloves to complete the ’20s flair. Those with an aversion to attention will appreciate the creations that came in between—simple, polished, and crafted in beautiful fabrics.
PFW SS19 day 2 in 10 pictures:
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Get daily updates on Paris Fashion Week SS19 here.
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