Jonathan Anderson weaves classicism into magic at Loewe, cosy knits takes textural forms at Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto presents a beautiful homage
Who: Now in his fifth year at the creative helm of Loewe, Jonathan Anderson continues to show that he is only going from strength to strength.
Where: At the UNESCO headquarters, Loewe's go-to show venue in Paris, classic literature such as Wuthering Heights, Dracula and Don Quixote were placed on showgoers' seats, each wrapped with a cover from the brand's AW18 campaign shot by Steven Meisel.
The Low-down: According to WWD, Anderson noted that the books were there to convey the idea that "classicism is always there... sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today". On the runway, we see a return of innerwear as outerwear, and continued focus on craft as seen in the dresses and trench coats with wrapped sections. Also making a return is the Gate bag (an excellent example of a classic shape wrapped in modern design), this time including a mini size, along with a tote version that looked work-appropriate.
Buro Loves: The outerwear, as well as the body-skimming dresses with A-line midi skirts.
Who: Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae continues to churn out new fabric techniques, presenting a textural (winter) wonderland this AW18.
Where: The show was held at the basement of Palais de Tokyo, the space left stark save for a few "campfires" made out of stacked glowing tubes.
The Low-down: Knits never looked this good! Titled 'Silent Energy', the collection was inspired by plants and animals having to endure long, harsh winters, patiently waiting for the advent of spring—is it just us or did the final pieces (specifically in yellow) resemble gourds? Evidently, Issey Miyake's concept of 'A Piece of Cloth' is a continuing work in progress. This season's Steam Stretch incorporates knit and pleats to give it a new, bouncy, knit-like texture.
Buro Loves: The coat in burnt orange and soft swirly patterns, the latter a constant feature throughout the collection.
Who: This season, Yohji Yamamoto pays homage to the Cubism movement pioneered by Picasso—his initial point of reference—and the late Azzedine Alaïa, his friend and fellow couturier with whom he shared a sense of companionship in their common devotion to the craft of construction.
Where: The show was held at The Docks — City of Fashion and Design.
The Low-down: In true Yamamoto fashion, the collection was rendered largely in black, one of the very few exceptions being a reconstructed cognac leather jacket that looked both soft and shapely at once. The designer showed his prowess in the art of constructing and deconstructing: here was a trench but not as you know it, and what seemed like multiple lapels or a gun flap continued around the back to produce another sleeve.
Buro Loves: The resplendent double-breasted coat with an exaggerated asymmetrical collar and a second lapel.