Boss gleaned inspiration from the West Coast, Rodarte returned to New York City, and Prabal Gurung celebrated the beauty in diversity
Who: This season marks the first collection after the departure of artistic womenswear director Jason Wu, (more here on the designer's swan song for Boss) and the first time the brand is presenting both menswear and womenswear in one collection on the runway.
Where: Chief brand officer Ingo Wilts cited California as the city of reference, imbuing a sense of effortless, West Coast ease in the form of languid silhouettes and, quite literally, in abstract map prints of Los Angeles.
The Low-down: For anyone who is used to donning all-black no matter the occasion or season, yet want to venture into colour without diving into the deep end of the spectrum, Boss' take on tailored pieces carry that appealing factor. Start slow with neutral shades of blush and crisp white layers—available in both menswear and womenswear i.e. smart jackets, nylon trench coats, chic trousers; but feel free to up the ante with some vibrancy by way of deep yellow and burgundy.
Buro Loves: Subtlety reigns when it's done with panache. Case in point: a dress with patchwork leather motifs that reference surfboard stripes (a nod to California's much-loved surf culture), and a sporty, nylon look featuring a drawstring pullover and matching trousers—the perfect traveling getup.
Who: Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy brought the show back to New York Fashion Week after a two-year hiatus.
Where: A rainy evening at the Marble Cemetery made for an appropriate backdrop to the elaborate, fairytale-esque underpinnings of the collection.
The Low-down: The signature Rodarte aesthetic was out in full force this season. If you thought that the usual fanfare of ruffles, layers of tulle and eye-catching head gear couldn't be topped, this collection takes the cake. The opening look was a precursor of what to expect from the collection—a ruffled, black leather look that emanated gothic Lolita princess vibes with black leather ruffles and strong shoulders (this same theatrical look was repeated in metallic silver later on). The accessories were breathtaking, per usual, with the brand taking on an upsized approach with its floral crowns this season—halo of roses make the bulk of them, some with the addition of tulle and gilded adornments.
Buro Loves: While we love the ornamented offerings, the designer duo proved their repertoire in creating not merely dreamy, but also wearable looks i.e. striped crochet dresses that will likely make a bigger statement than the conventional summery floral frocks, and sparkly, embellished dresses that are any bride-to-be's dream come true.
Who:Prabal Gurung celebrated inclusivity the best way possible, from the cast of models (from more than 36 different countries across the globe) to an equally diverse #FROW with the likes of Kelly Rowland, Tao Okamoto, Angela Rye, Awkwafina, Gemma Chan, Young Paris and Broderick Hunter.
Where: The space (Spring Studios) was beautifully decked with Tibetan prayer flags, a symbolic form of decoration to promote peace and positive energy, along with leaves and tree branches—a fitting tribute as the New York-based designer calls Nepal his home.
The Low-down: Gurung brought us on a spiritual journey that evening, one inspired by his recent nomadic voyage that saw him traversing to far-flung corners of the world, from the indigenous villages of Nepal to the urban streets of New York City and Tokyo. Upon first glance, you could say that the collection was definitely not dull to the senses. He took colour-blocking to a whole new level, decking out windbreakers, hoodies and trainers in clashing hues. Some cultural nuances were apparent by way of embellished dresses and printed ensembles that were knotted on the waist—all wonderfully elevated for a contemporary spin.
Buro Loves: A strapless, fringed frock that incorporated the best of both worlds—sportswear (spot the bright red pull cords along midriff) and Eastern culture, and a worthy denouement in the form of a handful of stunning Atelier Prabal Gurung gowns in faille and satin.
NYFW SS19 day 4 in 10 pictures:
Get daily updates on New York Fashion Week SS19 here.