New York Fashion Week SS17: Highlights of Day 5
A handful of standouts
Marking the 35th year of her label, Carolina Herrera ensured that her signature sophisticated aesthetic reverberated in her Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The beauty about her designs is that it never is predictable despite a swathe of feminine flattering silhouettes. Case in point, she worked with tiered skirts, tulle, brocade, and even denim that tempered the girlishness of the collection. Standouts include a black strapless frock worn over a chiffon collared shirt, and a crinkly foil-like brocade dress cinched on the waist that was gloriously futuristic.
To say that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave a solid collection at Proenza Schouler this evening is perhaps an understatement. The duo upped their technical expertise this season, playing with plissé pleats, three-dimensional proportions, and bold intarsia mink coats with colour combinations that were swoon-worthy. Hemlines were kept raw and asymmetrical, and there was an undercurrent of modernism that echoed throughout the collection—one that earned a sound applause at the end of the show.
New York Fashion Week is never complete without a raunchy but equally flashy lineup from Jeremy Scott, and his 80s-inspired collection this time around had rather risqué, X-rated notions. Bondage elements i.e. latex, rings, and even cutouts and unzipped dresses gave a sex-tinged haze to the lineup, stuff that you'd imagine a club-slinging, Plasmatics-loving girl to wear in the early '80s.
Elsewhere, Thom Browne played with illusory, trompe l'oeil effects with gusto, eschewing coats for dresses that looked like it had collars/lapels, ribbons, and pockets with elaborately clever seaming and stitching. Models strutted out in quirky oversized shades and tousled teased hairdos, an ode to Stepford-like Barbie-looking models who would delight in pastel confections while sipping on Cosmopolitans by the poolside.
Sportswear took a sheer turn at DKNY this season, as Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne delivered transparent outerwear pieces layered with what seemed like (also sheer) cycling shorts underneath. We love that there is a subtle championing of svelte figures reminiscent of the OG supermodels from the 1980s, with two-piece bodysuits that clung onto the models' bodies beautifully (who thankfully aren't size zeroes). While large fanny-packs and exaggerated long sleeves harkened back to the previous season, thigh-high sneakers might just be the latest It-shoe to sport in the near future.