Milan Fashion Week AW18: Highlights of Day 1
Mother of all shows
Who: Conceived by Remo Ruffini, Moncler Genius is a mega collaborative project that roped in a total of eight guest designers: Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, Kei Ninomiya of Noir Kei Ninomiya, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment, Francesco Ragazzi of Palm Angels, Karl Templer and Sandro Mandrino.
Where: Eight tented spaces were set up at the Palazzo delle Scintille, with each one housing the different designers' distinctive collections for Moncler.
What: The eight collections will be released in special monthly drops.
The Low-down: Each collection is imbued with the designers' own styles, with outerwear—particularly Moncler's bread and butter, the padded jacket—taking centre stage. To highlight a few: Piccioli presented an all-nylon line, colour-blocked with puffer shapes molded into cropped jackets, vest, gowns and gloves; Kei Ninomiya's conceptual brilliance shone in all-black (of course) works of intricate workmanship and innovative use of fabric; Craig Green put up a display of immense volumes and proportions; while Simone Rocha sent out a characteristically feminine collection with florals and delicate details.
Buro Loves: The whole concept of the project—creative, innovative and boundary-pushing.
Who: Going into his 4th year as creative director for Gucci, Alessandro Michele continues to keep the fashion world at the edge of their seats with his compelling (and fantastical) vision for the historic house.
Where: The show space for Gucci AW18 resembled an operating room in reference to the work of a designer—"the act of cutting, splicing and reconstructing materials and fabrics to create a new personality and identity with them".
What: Titled 'Cyborg', Michele's vision of the futuristic human is not so much robotic, but post-human; think beings with third eyes, fawn features, and doubling heads, going about with mysterious creatures in their hands. It's a concept that reflects the constant re-creation and development of selves.
The Low-down: The incredibly realistic head replicas and animals (mythical or not) made by techno-artisans Makinarium aside, there was a lot to take in on the runway: knitted balaclavas and silk headscarves, chunky sneakers crisscrossed with crystals, bejewelled headpieces and chainmails, New York Yankees-stamped caps and beanies, handcrafted suitcases made in collaboration with Globe-Trotter, and of course, the clothes. From a beautiful jacquard silk dress with pleated details and tulle zipped capes, to tweed jackets (one came with a sequin fringe trailing at the end of the sleeves) and asymmetrical outerwear, Michele masterfully stringed an abundance of details and inspirations into one spectacular feast for the eyes.
Buro Loves: The dose of geek-chic that was slipped in the midst of the weird and wonderful, like the yellow overlong sweater stitched with an elephant motif.
Who: One can always expect bold, colourful designs from Jeremy Scott in both Moschino and his eponymous label.
What: Drawing on his obsession with fashion and pop culture, Scott built his latest collection around a good old-fashion conspiracy theory: Did JFK tell Marilyn Monroe about aliens? Was she killed because she was going public with the story? Also, what if the seemingly perfect Jackie Kennedy was an extraterrestrial being herself?
The Low-down: On that last note, the show opened with models strutting out in matching skirtsuits and pillbox hats, complete with retro bob dos—a few even had their skin painted in extraterrestrial hues. As day must make way to night, the Jackies soon gave way to Monroes, where flamboyant jumpsuits and evening gown in sequins and satin zigzagged down the runway.
Buro Loves: The graphic prints that starred on some of the daywear, vibrant servings of pop art made in collaboration with artist Ben Frost.
VOTE: Which was your favourite collection from Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week AW18?