MFW SS19 day 5: Marni, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana
Who: Creative director Francesco Risso has been with Marni for two years now, and he has definitely found his groove, with a collection that's been met with positive reception.
Where: The collection—called "Mattress Recipe"—featured a dreamy (pun intended) show set. At the early morning show on day five, guests were greeted with a show set that had beds as seats.
The Low-down: Three words to describe Marni's Spring/Summer 2019 collection: Quirky, stylish and artsy. Francesco Risso channelled an artist's aesthetic into the looks this season, with looks in white canvases—essentially muslin-like fabrics—sent down the runway, cut and draped in a variety of designs, complete with unfinished hems. Following the neutrals, are more vibrant and playful ensembles in this season's prints, such as portraits, splashes of paints and Greco-Roman statues. One thing all the looks have in common? The nipped-at-the-waist silhouettes that gave the overall collection that extra dose of femininity, completing a modern lady's wardrobe.
Buro Loves: The triangular sunglasses that gave the looks a cool-girl finish.
Who: After the show, guests were invited to the Armani/Silos gallery, where an exhibition by Sarah Moon—titled "From One Season to Another" was held. She's been photographing the brand's campaigns for the past few seasons.
Where: Giorgio Armani returned to its usual spot at the Armani Theatre following the epic Emporio Armani show held at the Linate Airport.
The Low-down: 'La Forma del Colore' (The Shape of Colour). The name of the Spring/Summer 2019 collection was inspired by a Lorenzo Mattotti book on the different forms of colour. From metallic greys to silky pastels and iridescent sheens, the colour palette this season was soft yet attention-grabbing, amped up by the different textures incorporated in the looks. While the fluid and light shapes gave off a delicate vibe, some of Giorgio Armani's signature pantsuits indicated that these women still meant business. All in all, it was a line that's gentle yet full of strength, and as the show notes said, it's "for authentic women who express themselves by being themselves, in total and complete freedom."
Buro Loves: The embellished dresses in soft hues that embodied both glamorous and girly qualities, the wide-brimmed hat with pink edges, the stone earrings adorning the models' ears, and the soft jackets layered over girly numbers.
Dolce & Gabbana
Who: The show kicked off with a few iconic fashion faces—Monica Bellucci, Eva Herzigova and Helena Christensen. There were It-girls from the region such as Jessica Jung from Korea and Davikah from Thailand. Plus-size model Ashley Graham was in the line-up, so did 70-year-old model, Maye Musk. Seated on the front row is Cardi B, who made her first fashion week appearance after being involved in a brawl with Nicki Minaj during New York Fashion Week.
Where: The show was held at the brand's own Metropol theatre. To complement the DNA-themed collection, the designer duos' fingerprints were projected on the walls.
The Low-down: In this season's DNA-themed collection, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana wanted us to be comfortable in our own skin. In an interview with Vogue, Dolce mentioned, "Each one of us is the king or queen of our own lives!" And kings and queens did they make them feel. An assortment of the brand's signature printed dresses was spotted among the 151-look collection, some, in the form of a tiered floor-sweeping gown, and some, in a more streamlined silhouette—complete with tiaras fit for royals. The tailoring was anything but basic too. Maye Musk sported a three-piece lace suit with jacquard lapels, and a cropped blazer look with strong shoulders is one of our favourites. If this is how Dolce & Gabanna want us to feel good about ourselves, they definitely did it.
Buro Loves: The LBDs—featuring sexy cut-outs and worn with thigh-high stockings—that gave the more-is-more collection a refreshing pump of sensual edge.