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LFW SS19 day 1: J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou and Julien Macdonald

A melting pot

LFW SS19 day 1: J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou and Julien Macdonald
JW Anderson’s show was all about the traditional femininity, Mary Katrantzou pulled out all the stops for her 10th anniversary show, and Julien Macdonald proved that sex always sells

J.W. Anderson

Who: Although he presented a co-ed show last season, designer Jonathan Anderson decided to take a break this round, and he'll be showing his Spring 2019 collection with an artist collaboration during the men's schedule later this year.  

Where: As the creative director of Loewe, the designer will be jetting off to Paris for his second show of the season (as per usual), which is showing on September 28.

The Low-down: In an interview with WWD, Jonathan Anderson revealed the inspiration behind his eponymous label's collection this season. "It was this idea of the empowerment of women. How do you empower the look of the wearer? With fluidity and everything moving off the body. It's this idea that the clothing comes to life by walking in a domestic space—or in the landscape of life. It's laidback." A glance at the looks and you'll notice the array of details incorporated throughout the ensembles. Patchwork, fringes and macramé added a dose of the bohemian vibe, amped up with headscarves in different materials that were his way of "celebrating fashion through texture". Adorning some of the models' feet, are his latest collaboration with Conversethe signature Chuck Taylor high-tops now come with chunky creeper soles and blue spoilers.

Buro Loves: The puffy sleeves from the '80s are back, and it's a supersized version in the hottest trends of the moment—leopard prints. What's not to like?  

 

Mary Katrantzou

Who: For the brand's 10th anniversary show, renowned Greek composer Vangelis—a close friend of Mary Katrantzou's—allowed her to use his previously unpublished music as the soundtrack of her show. Aside from that, she also worked with Stephen Jones (for hats), and Jimmy Choo (for shoes) this season.

Where: Showgoers filled the big venue at The Roundhouse for the special celebratory show.

The Low-down: The collection was a melting pot of all her inspiration from the past decade, given a reiteration in the best way possible. At the backstage of her show, she says, "we mapped out our favourite silhouettes and techniques and looked at our most recognizable prints and images. We cross-pollinated them, and mixed them up." There were leather co-ords in intricate geometric cut-outs, stamp prints in eye-catching cuts, fragile "bubble wrap" dresses complete with a "do not touch" tape, and tiered dress where you can learn a thing or two about the butterfly species. Some of our absolute favourites? An off-shoulder number that's shaped like a (glamorous) cocoon, and a structured gown with a lampshade silhouette from her early days.

Buro Loves: The puffy sleeves from the '80s are back, and it's a supersized version in the hottest print of the moment—leopards. What's not to like?  

 

Julien Macdonald

Who: Victoria' Secret model Izabel Goulart and Winnie Harlow (who's been making the rounds this fashion week) closed the Julien Macdonald show. Spotted front row, are Nicole Scherzinger and Made in Chelsea star, Millie Mackintosh, to name a few.

Where: Julien Macdonald held his Spring/Summer 2019 show in the St. John's Church, where models strutted down the halls in sensual looks.

The Low-down: Whether you like it or not, sex sells. The designer took the two words to heart and produced a collection of barely-there ensembles that showed off a woman's figures in the most (and best) way possible. After all, according to the show notes, "this is Julien Macdonald's new landscape for the body". Slinky dresses in same-but-different designs—some with sharp shoulders, some with asymmetrical hemlines, and some with strategically placed cut-outs dominated the collection, coupled with a few flirty frocks for those who prefer a shorter length. Although certain pieces reminded us a little of designs from other fashion houses, all in all, the full collection is exactly what the Julien Macdonald clientele likes. This season's looks will be another red-carpet favourite, for sure.  

Buro Loves:  The pops of solid neon hues were a refreshing break from the metallics. 

 

LFW SS19 day 1 in 10 pictures:

 

Get daily updates on London Fashion Week SS19 here

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Text: Joan Kong

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