24 Minutes with Gilbert Soliz of Marc Jacobs Beauty on glitter for Asian eyes, getting a heatproof summer glow, and more
If you've caught on the hype behind Marc Jacobs Beauty's latest releases on Instagram, have your wallets at the ready because two new eye makeup products are dropping online on Sephora this 30 August. Just this morning, we had a chat with Gilbert Soliz, Global Makeup Artist at Marc Jacobs Beauty on what you can expect from the new collection. Ahead, the makeup maestro shares his expertise and beauty tips on how to elevate your eye makeup game while keeping it simple:
Tell us more about the O!Mega Shadow Gel Powder Eyeshadow. What about the texture, finish, and colours that make it different from past season's eyeshadow options?
Gilbert Soliz: The eyeshadows come in a new formula and technology that we're using, and it's very different from the shadows in our Eye-Conic Palettes. The whole idea behind it is "more is more". It falls under the O!Mega franchise, which also has the O!Mega bronzer in large—it's three times the fill so you'd never hit the pan. The oversize packaging is also one of the signatures of the O!Mega range.
This eyeshadow has the texture and finish of cashmere, so we've actually mixed the pigments with essential oils and silicone—these give it that super creamy finish. For this range, we partnered with Diane Kendal, a creative consultant of the brand to come up with shades that the Marc Jacobs girl would use i.e. The makeup lover with an everyday beauty routine but wants it quick and simple. So these are most coveted and most requested shades she would use. Through research, we found that women were only using one or two shades from eyeshadow palettes, and those are usually the allover base, crease colour, or deeper shades to smudge the eyes or smoke it out.
There are three branded techniques you can use with the O!Mega range:
1. The first is the defined crease for the girl on-the-go. You'd use these neutral shades to create dimension on the eye. I've seen this a lot on social media where beauty girls are using it to cut the crease or create warmth.
2. The next is the simple smoke—it's all about using one eyeshadow colour to create a halo to "wrap" around the eye, add mascara and you're out the door.
3. The last is the editorial swipe—basically using eyeshadow to create a softer version of a winged look as opposed to using a crayon.
What are your favourite ways of wearing the O!Mega Shadow Gel Powder Eyeshadow?
GS: I really do like the concept of using one shade allover. It feels really fresh and modern. I think Diane got it right with the colour assortment for these shadows. Just washing the colours over the eye gives it a polished, perfected look that women want.
How would use just one product—the Highliner Glam Glitter Gel Eye Crayon, in any shade—to create a glamourous evening look?
GS: I like the creaminess and ease of application with this. I'd suggest to start by saturating the lower lid with a neutral colour. By doing this, the crayon works as a creamy eyeshadow base. Blend it out well for a wash of colour over the lids. Next, use a deeper shade to define the eyes. Now that you have a backdrop, you can use a darker shade on the root of the lashes, or close to the lash line. Use a smudge brush to soften and create a sultrier effect. If you wanna have more fun, use a third shade on the outer corners of the eye or on the lower lash line, then use a brush to blend it into the crease. I love these because it's so malleable and you can create graphic shapes or something more sensual.
How would you recommend pulling off glitter and bold colours for almond-shaped eyes?
GS: All of the Highliner Glam Glitter eye crayons have small silver reflects. The idea is to create a sheen on the eyes, and for those with smaller lids, try to keep it very close to the lash line. I always use a shade like Iced (white with silver glitter) on the centre of the eyelids as a topper to finish your eye makeup look. This creates a lovely reflection, and would work on the lower lash line, inner corners of the eye, and even on the brow bone as a highlight too.
How would you create a day-to-night eye makeup look with the latest Fall 2018 collection?
GS: For an everyday look, I'd consider one of the matte O!Mega Shadow Gel Powder Eyeshadow shades. I'd use something more neutral and subdued for the daytime, and to kick it up a notch, I'd use the Highliner Glam Glitter and smudge it with a shade like Dynam-O! just to add a little more drama.
What are your all-time favourite Marc Jacobs Beauty products?
GS: The Highliner eye crayons for sure. It comes in three finishes, the original, the matte (that was released last summer), and the new-season glitters. There are more than 30 shades and these are definitely my go-to. I love the Velvet Noir Mascara, and also our new Enamoured Gloss Sticks. It is a hybrid lip product with the shine of a gloss, but it feels like a balm on the lips. So it's very comfortable and it works as an oil that you can use to condition the lips. I'm a fan of all things coconut, so I also love the Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter.
A makeup trend you are currently crushing on?
GS: I'm really into creating the perfect pout. I'm using more lip liner now, and layering multiple lipsticks to create the right shade, then topping it off with lip gloss. The whole beauty trend of outlining the lip to give an illusion of a poutier lip is what I've been seeing on social media. In the past, we always blended the lip liner away as it was a faux pas to see the darker lip line but it's now back in trend.
When I'm doing demos on stage, it's really hard to create excitement around the lip. But when I use lip liners in a darker and lighter shdae to create a certain look, I get a lot of 'oohs' and 'aahs'. The feedback I get is that people really like these tips for the lips, and that's surprising because I'd thought it'll be the least exciting part of the demo.
A makeup trend you are so over this season?
GS: The overuse of powder. I'm calling out baking! I see the need to set makeup, but when it becomes too dry or dehydrated and you lose the natural luster of the skin, that's when the challenges come through.
What are your tips for a humidity-proof, summer-ready glow?
GS: For me, the Finish Line Perfecting Coconut Setting Powder works wonders. We've added coco butter to it, so it has a creamy finish. What I like to do is use a velour puff and strategically apply it on the face. There's good shine and bad shine—it's important to eliminate shine around your T-zone and nose, and allow the good shine on high points of your face to come through. If you don't want to carry a big tub of powder with you, you can pack your velour puff in your makeup bag and touch up your makeup throughout the day.
How do you find inspiration for your makeup looks?
GS: As a makeup artist, I like to prepare as much as I can—you'd want to understand the concept and theme of what you are shooting. But a lot of the magic happens on set when you meet the model or the client. I like to consider her personality, facial features, skin tone, and hair. You can prepare as much as you can but the minute the woman shows up, it can change. That's why you have to be prepared yet still flexible and open-minded to try something new.
Who is your beauty muse right now?
GS: If I could do makeup on someone tomorrow, it'll probably be Dua Lipa. She's gorgeous and she can pull off different makeup looks so well.
What made you decide to be makeup artist?
GS: I feel like I was always fortunate—if you'd cut my vein, I'd bleed makeup, or lipstick! I grew up in a salon environment, and I had really great mentors. When I was in high school back in the '90s, the underground club scene was huge at the time, and dressing up and wearing makeup was part of that nightlife. That was when I realised I was really good in doing my own makeup and that I can do makeup on other people as well. That lightbulb moment happened and I knew that I wanted to take it seriously as a full-time job because that was what I was passionate about.
What are your top three travel beauty essentials?
GS: Any type of facial mist or essence. Traveling sucks the moisture out of your skin, so a good mist always in my bag. You can find a lip balm and maybe eye patches as well. It all revolves around hydration and moisture when you're traveling.
Marc Jacobs Beauty O!Mega Shadow Gel Powder Eyeshadow and Highliner Glam Glitter Gel Eye Crayons drop 30 August at sephora.my, and at Sephora stores from 13 September.