Standing firm in her belief that women can do and be anything, Suen Lee takes on different roles and moves between them oh-so effortlessly. In BURO Malaysia’s May cover story, the mastermind behind the homegrown jewellery brand SUEN shares the secrets to her success.

How do you know when you’re in the company of the greats? On one wind-swept Monday, a visceral manifestation of brilliance graces us. Time seems to stand still, the air feels thick with anticipation, and the cacophony that fills the room suddenly turns into a hum like a well-tuned instrument. Suen Lee has entered the building. The founder and Chief Executive Officer of her eponymous jewellery brand commands attention simply with her presence.

“She’s so mother,” whispers a colleague, bestowing our cover star with the ultimate Gen Z seal of approval—not that she needs one, of course—as the camera flashes begin illuminating the room. The sheets of rain pounding the glass windows do little to cut through her laser focus. The roar of the thunder outside is the music she dances to. Like crafting an exquisite piece of jewellery, her movements are delicate yet deliberate, every step part of a greater design.

AN UNCUT GEM

Building a respectable empire such as SUEN demands the magical alchemy of proficiency shaped by deep industry knowledge and passion stemming from a life-long dream. It is the cardinal rule that every aspiring entrepreneur must abide by. But Lee, much to the surprise of many, did not exhaust her youth charting a course to prominence in luxury craftsmanship. Rather, she would frown at her mother’s request to join her at the jewellery table.

“My mum loves jewellery. She can sit in a jewellery store for hours,” says Lee, her steely expression softened by a reserved smile. She then reminisces about the time when she would drop her off at a goldsmith’s shop on Jalan Bandar on her way to the law firm she was working at and pick her up at the same spot at day’s end. “It was mind-boggling to me. I was like, ‘Oh my God, what did you do there the whole day?’” she lets out a hearty chuckle.

Lee’s interest in sparkling treasures only began when she tied the knot with the son of a diamond wholesaler. Tasked with helping the company reestablish its position in the Singaporean market—a tall order for any industry novice—she threw herself into the work wholeheartedly. “I had to make a lot of cold calls,” she says on learning the ropes at a moment’s notice. “I had to constantly remind myself to thicken my skin before stepping into any business meetings,” she adds.

The whole experience, daunting as it was, paid off in spades once she decided to branch out with SUEN Jewellers in 2010. Occupying a bungalow lot on Jalan Ma’arof, the retail store quickly garnered the attention of local gemophiles and has now become a haven for its ever-growing fanbase. “I don’t want to say that I stumbled into the business. I kind of grew into it; I was moulded to take this path,” she says, shifting her gaze back to the present.

Having established itself as a force in the local luxury market, questions on the future of the brand are on everyone’s lips, one of which includes the possibility of SUEN expanding its footprint. To this, Lee asks fans not to hold their breath. “Just look at Graff. It managed to build a strong reputation back when it operated from just a single store in London,” she shares her reasoning. “When you’re known for something, people will seek you out,” she adds.

Prioritising quality over quantity is a commendable business model in itself, but in doing so, SUEN is also filling the gaps left by the jewellery juggernauts. “There is a market for people who prefer to avoid big chains, drawn instead to the value of personalised services,” she says. The scoring of the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) certification for Design, Manufacturing, and Retail further cements the brand’s status.

EVERYTHING, EVERYWHERE

Lee instead diversifies her portfolio with partnerships with renowned jewellers, meticulously selected so as not to interfere with her other ventures, demonstrating her shrewd business acumen. The brands in question include Italian heritage houses Damiani and Fope. “Each of these brands brings something unique to the market,” she prefaces her answer. “They offer their own marks of recognition, appealing to different demographics,” she says.

Her take on the brands is right on the money. Damiani, for starters, is revered for its inimitable workmanship. “Damiani's designs and craftsmanship are so intricate that even their simplest creations are nearly impossible to replicate,” says Lee. Fope, on the other hand, caters to the younger crowd with its streamlined designs. The patented Flex’it bracelet, which promises unprecedented flexibility, further drives up its wearability and cool factor.

Delivering on all fronts is non-negotiable in the world of luxury. Every transaction hinges on trust. There is no room for doubt. Despite its relatively young age, SUEN stands shoulder to shoulder with the world’s biggest names. Lee’s spotless credentials—in wholesale, retail, and legal—give a strong indication that SUEN leaves nothing to chance. Those who are not familiar with the brand have been known to take the leap of faith in her name recognition alone.

“I remember when I sold a three-and-a-half-carat diamond to a customer who never even saw the stone. She and her husband took my word for it and never regretted the purchase,” she says, still stunned by the depth of their confidence in her. It is an instance that reaffirms her to stay the course. “There are always corners to be cut, but the question is, where do you stop? It’s a slippery slope. Life will always throw you more and more temptations,” she adds.

DOING HER OWN THING

Lee is not one to succumb to the temptation of trends either. “I don’t wear something just because everybody else is wearing it,” she says, taking a jab at the herd mentality sweeping spending culture. It is the kind of epiphany that one does not just come back from, and she has one Chanel jacket to be grateful for. Taken by the pastel-coloured outer garment, the then-twentysomething Lee contemplated getting one for herself. That is until she saw no less than six different women wearing the same piece to an event she attended.

So it comes as no surprise that Lee refuses to jump on every bandwagon social media is hailing as the next big thing—the lab-grown diamond craze being one of them. Unfazed by the promise of a big payout, she held on to SUEN’s standard practice of sourcing natural diamonds from Belgium and working them into jewellery pieces at its state-of-the-art factory in Bangsar. She saw an asterisk in the fine print many inexperienced jewellers missed.

“The profit margin for lab-grown diamonds was phenomenal. When they were first introduced, you could make like 900 percent margin because it cost next to nothing to make them,” she remembers. Lee also recalls being hounded by many to take the plunge. “Luckily, we didn’t. About one and a half years later, the prices tanked to a mere 1/10th of the initial valuation. A lot of companies went bankrupt,” a deep sigh escapes her.

Although she is unconcerned about the changing landscape of the industry, one recent development does grind her gears: the trade war. “I am still giving the United States government the benefit of the doubt,” she says. Lee claims that the issue inadvertently upends the jewellery sector as it intensifies market volatility. “It is quite imprudent to issue a blanket tariff to a country. They could have approached it methodically—industry by industry,” she adds.

Amid the rush of ambition and the weight of responsibility, Lee acknowledges that the real jewels in life are found in family. So at every chance she gets, she reconnects with her three sons, trading stories and secrets over a glass of wine, as though time has not yet stretched them in different directions. Conversations naturally drift to the continuity of the company. After all, what is the point of building a legacy if there is no one around to receive it?

“I am grooming my youngest son to succeed me. He’s got a very good eye for detail, so he’s coming on really well,” she gently fiddles with the ring on her finger, an unheated yellow sapphire gleams under the light. Lee, however, does not oppose her children exploring other opportunities and paving their own way to success. “I think they do want to take over the business, but I’ll leave it up to them. In any case, I’d like to help them establish something for themselves,” she says.

MOTHER KNOWS BEST

Lee’s hands-off stance on her children’s career paths offers a glimpse at her parenting style. “I’m not a tiger mum! Well, at least I hope I'm not,” she jests, looking back at the only time she was labelled as such by one of her sons’ housemasters. “I don’t breathe down people’s necks—not my children, not my staff. But I am big on manners, and I'm very insistent about respect. I don’t care if you’re the driver or the cleaner—you deserve respect,” she says, her tone stern.

With a foundation built on vision and values, it is easy to see why SUEN has remained at the forefront of its field, thriving in the face of adversity. As the brand gears up for its 15th anniversary, Lee hints at the exciting plans she has in the works. “We are planning something special for our big gala night in July,” she shares, barely able to keep a tight lip on the subject. “This is a good moment to reflect on our journey and assess what we’ve accomplished,” she concludes.