If there is anyone who served up a feel-good moment at Paris Fashion Week, it was definitely Stella McCartney. Ending her show with a bang, models shimmied and hollered to an upbeat dance-off choreographed by Blanca Li. Always designing with “girl power” in mind, the SS17 collection incorporated all sorts of elements, from athletic to tribal and even menswear, all done in unique volumes and silhouettes. As a longtime vegetarian, it is a known fact that McCartney does not include leather or fur in any of her clothing. This time, she displayed her passion front and center on oversized T-shirts, dresses and even lacey evening looks with positive messages like Girl Thanks, No Fur and No Leather: they were so chic, we actually would not mind donning the slogan pieces.
Sacai’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection is a tribute to the greats: legendary musicians like Kurt Cobain, Jimi Hendrix and John Lennon as well as celebrity style icons such as Jane Birkin, Tommy Nutter and Pablo Picasso. If you think that the juggle of so many personalities is the recipe to a pop culture disaster, think again. Drawing ideas from each of these influencers, Chitose Abe manipulated the multiple aspects and synthesized them into something original, presenting a collection that is fresh and simplified. From Birkin’s classic trench coat tweaked with oversized shoulders to Picasso’s signature stripes-and-plaid combination transformed into a thigh-high slit skirt with a lined mini apron skirt, each look starred a single, identifiable piece amidst Abe’s multiple-garments-in-one approach. Our favourite hero piece? The Daniel Johnston T-shirt worn by Cobain at the MTV Video Music Awards in 1992.
Previously spotted on the Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Isabel Marant runways, it is safe to say that the ’80s silhouette is back. At Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski sent models down the catwalk in big shoulders, padded-shoulder shirts and high-rise trousers. Eliminating the costume-y factor of the all-glam era, Vanhee-Cybulski took on the throwback influences with a modern approach: fabric play, and understated yet charming hues. And just when we thought we had seen it all, models appeared in boiler suits that are given an ultra-luxe spin, topping the look off with a lunchbox handbag. Well, hand us the utility-inspired look and we are ready to get to work.
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