Dries Van Noten
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Who: Dries Van Noten said the AW18 collection is “made for the free spirit”.
Where: Models walked under the gilded stucco ceilings of the Hotel de Ville. The rest of the show-space was kept minimal.
What: To accompany the colourful collection, all models were sporting thick neon lashes—in eight different shades, no less.
The Low-down: The prints this season were inspired by Art Brut, and they were all hand-drawn in the studio. To keep things on a younger note, the designer injected a dash of sporty aura with utilitarian parkas layered over slouchy silhouettes—but that’s just one of the many styles spotted on the runway. There were also ’70s glam and ’20s flair, pulled together by Van Noten’s use of feathers that’ll definitely earn a double take. Fluffy panels were added to the neckline or hem of a plain coat for that added interest, while some looks saw the details cascade down a printed skirt.
Buro Loves: In a sea of printed looks, our favourite, are the plain black pieces that were fastened with feathered brooches.
Rochas
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Who: According to Vogue, Creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua mentioned that he’s often asked “Why are there so few day clothes at Rochas?”, so for a change, he went with this direction this season.
Where: The airy, light-filled Salon d’Honneur at the Grand Palais.
The Low-down: Sophisticated femininity may be de rigueur at Rochas, but this season saw Alessandro Dell’Acqua send out some highly desirable borrowed-from-the-boys looks. Case in point, the first lookout: a camel-coloured double-breasted suit with gently oversized shoulders and floor-grazing trousers. Simple, yet straight-to-the-point chic. Necklines were kept high or collared, and in some looks, finished off with a leather ribbon around the neck. This was largely a ‘daywear’ collection, although the sumptuous midnight blue jacquard coat that closed the show will see us through day to night to day.
Buro Loves: The mannish tailoring, the gleaming brocade looks and Dell’Acqua’s eye for colour. Oh, and the python boots with glittery heels.
H&M Studio
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Who: Alek Wek opened the show, and was joined on the runway by the likes of Edie Campbell and Amber Valetta. Guests sat at the dinner tables include Naomie Harris, Winnie Harlow, Jane Chuck and Ashley Lau.
Where: The Musée des Arts Decoratifs was transformed (by Bureau Betak) into a Japanese-style dining hall complete with tatami mats and cushions to sit on. Guests were required to remove their shoes and change into Japanese two-toed socks before entering the dining area.
What: After much waiting (there were also grunts from the photographers’ pit), guests were served sushi and sashimi on lacquered trays, with the show starting only once guests had finished most of their meals—mainly because paper sakura flowers rained from the ceiling during the finale.
The Low-down: H&M Studio showed their Spring/Summer 2018 collection, it being a see now, buy now collection. Bold primary colours made a cheerful splash on the tatami mats; there were flowy kaftans, loose tunic tops, capes and trenches to see you through your next summer holiday, but also kimono-style cotton jackets, flared trousers and jacquard-patterned dresses that are work-appropriate.
Buro Loves: The see now, buy now concept, actually. Ribbed tunic, and matching trousers got you dreaming about your next vacay? Already in my shopping basket, and checked out.
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