Fashion

Paris Fashion Week AW18: Highlights of Day 8

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04.03.2018

By Joan Kong

Paris Fashion Week AW18: Highlights of Day 8

Stella McCartney

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Who: The paintings of women that were incorporated into the pieces are from the work of British artist J.H. Lynch, who was well-known in the ’60s.

Where: The Palais Garnier opera house has been her show venue since the beginning. 

What: Stella McCartney is reportedly planning to buy back Kering’s 50 percent stake in her brand. 

The Low-down: The brand’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection can be summed up in two words: laid-back luxe. The invitation—in the form of yellow socks—hinted at the sporty flair, which laid the foundation of the line. Her signature tailoring was introduced in slightly oversized silhouettes; sultry lace pieces in the form of a bustier and slip dresses, and also slight Victoriana vibes thanks to the billowy sleeves and drop-waist pleated numbers. Prints wise, aside from the paintings of women, there were also prints in the form of floral postcards that were derived from the ’50s and ’60s, exuding a hint of a retro feel. One of our favourite looks? The deconstructed wedding “dress” which is made for the modern-day bride-lace co-ords were layered with a chiffon overlay for extra allure.

Buro Loves: The new Loop trainers spotted on the models feature specially designed hooks and stitching that eliminate the use of glue in the construction of the soles.

 

 

Sacai

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Who: Kaia Gerber opened the show in a half shiny puffer jacket, half striped jacket look that set the tone for the show.

Where: An old, disused carpark in the 3rd arrondissement, complete with tiny lifts (including one that’s out of order). It’s the same space the men’s show was held at in January this year, and also the former offices of the liberal French newspaper, Libération.

What: Models wore jewellery from Paris-based brand, Charlotte Chesnais.

The Low-down: The adage ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’, certainly rings true at Sacai. Creative director Chitose Abe, known for her technical prowess and her brand of hybridisation knows what works best for her brand and continues to work her magic, churning out pieces this season that are bound for retail success. Kaia Gerber opened the show in a half shiny puffer jacket, half striped jacket look that set the tone for the show. Stripes, windowpane checks and native American motifs were recurring prints and the silhouette was one of casual elegance, a balance of volume at the top, worn with narrow-cut trousers, pulled together with a belt around the waist. Mismatched boots were the order of the day, zebra-printed on the right, leopard printed on the left, or paired with a plain black version instead. Sartorial polish ensures you don’t look like you got dressed in the dark.

Buro Loves: The shiny puffer jackets, single-breasted jacket-meets-denim jacket hybrid, the camel and forest green coat, and the mix of stripes with checks, and as always, the artful mix of different textures, oh, and the pleated kilts.

 

 

Alexander McQueen

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Who: Creative director Sarah Burton has been with the brand since her graduation in 1997.

What: All show attendees were gifted with a personalised Aran sweater each, with their names stitched onto the tags.

 The Low-down: For Alexander McQueen’s AW18 collection, Sarah Burton channelled her love for the natural world with looks and details that were inspired by butterflies and bugs. There were kaleidoscopic exploded butterfly wing designs, magnified beetle markings, and exotic insect embroideries, juxtaposed with leather corsets and sharp tailoring that strikes the perfect balance between hard and soft. Towards the end, Burton amped up the style ante with sway-with-the-wind tasselled looks that gave the metamorphosis that perfect ending, including a ruffled mini dress with puffed shoulder, spliced with a blazer no less.

Buro Loves: The tuxedo in different variations, from tail-coats to with dramatic tasselled sleeves.

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