After seeing what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is creating for Hermès this AW16, we’re wishing that the weather here might give some leeway for cashmere and leather luxurious enough to wear in the form of sweater dresses and chic jackets. Austerity was evident, but it wasn’t bland thanks to Vanhee-Cybulski’s penchant for playing with silhouettes and materials: Languid turtleneck dresses that moved gracefully as the model walked, stiff coats with wide sleeves made from quilted satin, and patent leather boots with cropped pants that echoed to the house’s equestrian roots.
The rumours are rife that this AW16 season marks Hedi Slimane’s swan song collection for Saint Laurent, but there was no stopping the designer’s embracement of his love for the 80s and also the skinny-chic sentiment that he is rather well-known for. First things first, there were a lot of shoulders. Massive, exaggerated shoulders in fur and chiffon, so much so that it seems as though satire fueled Slimane’s collection. Then there were the usual short and snazzy cocktail dresses that were mostly embellished and made for an 80s-slinging club-swinging Friday night out. The late Yves Saint Laurent might be rolling in his grave as we type.
The memo was out at Stella McCartney AW16: veganism is what the designer is truly standing by, be it in her lifestyle or in her fashion line. Working with velvet, silk and lace while eschewing fur and animal skin, McCartney puts her own spin to the outerwear of the season (puffy jackets), bib jackets adorned wiht ruffles and the recurring swan motif. What caught our eyes were two tie-dyed denim pieces—one a jacket and the latter a longer jacket-dress with zigzag cords along the sides—pretty much the stuff dreams are made of.
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