Bottega Veneta
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Who: This year marks the 17th year that creative director Tomas Maier has been helming the design reins of the brand.
Where: The show location was in the American Stock Exchange Building, featuring a residential set designed in collaboration with Tony-award winning scenic designer Scott Pask. The space included notable pieces of mid-century Italian design, including chairs by Gio Ponti and Gianfranco Frattini’s “Sesann” chairs for Cassini.
What: This marks the first time ever that a Bottega Veneta show was held in New York City, in conjunction with the opening of its largest Maison yet. Maier sought inspiration from the architecture of the concrete jungle while paying homage to the fearless yet expressive spirit of New York men and women. “I was thinking about the way of life in the city, which goes from one extreme to another,” he says. “It’s hyper-motion and then it falls into almost total seclusion.”
The Low-down: Clothes were kept languid, comfortable yet not trite — perfect to lounge and live it up at the same time, which made sense given the apartment-esque show set. Merging elements of New York while retaining the brand’s Italian heritage, there were delicate evening dresses and silk pajamas in jewel hues, all appropriate to don in the comfort of one’s dwelling and to wear out. Also spotted were a few dresses with immaculate embroidery inspired by the framework of buildings in New York City.
Buro Loves: An assemblage of coats worthy enough to turn heads, from tiger printed ones to shaggy wool overcoats with vivid satin linings. On the flip side, a lilac onesie dotted with ethereal floral prints — only the most elegant way to lounge.
Tory Burch
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Who: A slew of celebs flanked the front row, with the likes of Sofia Sanchez de Betak, Julianne Moore, Sienna Miller, Liya Kebede, Zoey Deutch and Maggie Q.
Where: Burch brought springtime to NYC at her show, with over 14,000 carnations blooming across the set.
What: Romanticism was a key theme this season — references include American socialite Lee Radziwill for her style and the floral nuances of Pina Bausch’s ‘Nelken’.
The Low-down: Burch proved that florals aren’t limited to just the spring season, with a recurring floral motif that echoed throughout the collection in the form of shirtdresses with asymmetrical hemlines. But there was a clever play between proportions that elevated a handful of looks, from an argyle sweater worn with an ankle-grazing skirt, and a shearling parka layered over a cushy fur trench, offering a peek of the dress’ pleated and fluted hem beneath.
Buro Loves: The deft juxtaposition of edgy meets granny-chic, demonstrated via a white moto jacket paired with a turtleneck sweater and modern navy-and-green skirt — versatile yet well-executed.
Kate Spade New York
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Who: This is creative director Deborah Lloyd’s final collection for the brand. She stepped down from her role last November.
Where: The Masonic Hall in the city with country music as the backdrop.
What: Prairie-chic but with an unusually sombre note.
The Low-down: Instead of the typically whimsical and colour-loving collections that we’ve come to expect from Lloyd, her swan song was made up of denim and black. Sophisticated coats and dresses were interspersed occasionally with white floral embroidery; and prairie influences were noted with denim midi skirts worn with eyelet blouses and high cowboy-like boots.
Buro Loves: A utilitarian, striped coveralls layered over a ruffled blouse along with animal-printed dresses that were a refreshing take for the brand.
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